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Showing posts from June, 2007

Burda top

The advantage of preparing 3 garments to be sewn at a time, is that when you get to sewing, it really goes fast (most of the time). I find that a lot of time is in tracing the pattern, making adjustments, cutting and marking. And I did all those things for 3 patterns last weekend and Monday night.
(This does not work for me with jackets or coats btw, those are time consuming projects also in the sewing stage).

After the dress, the top is now almost finished. Black was on my sewing machine and serger, so I continued with the top, as this is also sewn with black.

This is not a pattern I would normally take for myself, but I find that with all the projects I see on Pattern Review and other blogs, that I become a little more experimental.

And with success, I tried it and my daughter immediately was very enthousiast: "you must wear this tomorrow". (having a birthday party to go to). And my husband likes it too. But unfortunately I can't finish it tonight, as I the shop I went to …

Wrap dress finished.

The wrap dress is finished. I find it remarkable to see the difference in the way it looks with or without belt. A lot of time went into adding the tie, turning and topstitching it. Certainly if you compare the time that it took to the time that the rest of the dress took to make.

And in the end I like it better with a black belt! A full review I have added to Pattern Review.


Wrap dress

The wrap dress is almost finished. It is such an easy pattern to make. My first one only took part of an afternoon and evening to make, this one was sewn (after cutting and marking) in about 3 hours. Only thing left to do is double layering the tie.

I finished the neckline, armholes and skirt with folding elastic, which I first ironed double, a tip I read on PR, and which makes working with this easier. When pinning neckline and armhole, I stretched the elastic a little bit, to prevent gaping.

Because I didn't want any difficult overlaps with the elastic, I first sewed the shoulders and then attached the elastic to the armholes. Only after this the side seams are closed.






Elastic sewn to armhole, then stitched and serged.


















Top of seam handsewn to lay flat, and finished underarm seam.
















And this is how the top of the dress looked like after attaching the elastic. You can see that the normal length of the top is too short for me (I alway lengthen patterns 4-5 cm in the waist). I had made t…

All Burda patterns

My sewing baskets are full again, and all three are Burda patterns. Didn't do this on purpose, but I like the fit of Burda patterns, and you have quite a few patterns with one magazine, so a large pattern stash. And as I practically grew up using these patterns, I don't normally have much problems with their descriptions, nor with the fact that seam allowances are not included.

Thinking about my next projects I realised:
Summer holidays are approaching fast (we're off to France, looking forward to that)I promised myself last year to throw away old shorts that I've worn for ages (only wear those on holidays)If I want to throw away shorts, I'll have to make (or buy) two new shorts. Buying is no option, would take long shopping hours to find something that fits, which is frustrating and usually very expensive for a garment that I seldom wear.
I'd like one easy dress, that needs no ironing and can be worn to go to a restaurant for example. Not too fancy, but I don'…

Reaction on comment

Nancy just asked in a comment how I did start making lingerie and whether I have any books. Let me answer this question here.

First: how did I start?
I started with a course on sewing lingerie that was held in the town I live. The woman that minded my children two days a week when they were little was on this course and told me about it, knowing that I sewed too. It was a great course, that thought me all the basics. Then I started reading information on the internet, bought a few commercial patterns, took another workshop with someone else. All this together let to the bra's I make now for myself and my daughter. So, it's a combination of lessons and trying, my first bra's did not fit as well as they do now. From a technical point of view: you must be precise when sewing lingerie, a few millimeters make a big difference in a bra, where in a skirt you won't see the difference.

And on books: I do not have any book on lingerie making. I considered buying the book "th…

Empty sewing baskets!

This does not happen too often, all my sewing baskets are empty! I finished the Burda top for my daughter, see below and the review at Pattern Review if you want more info. The fit is fine, but I think the neckline is too low.


Further I finished my Sewy Linda bra and panty.



For the bra I will write a review on PR sometime this weekend, the panty pattern is drafted from instructions to my own measurements. Made this panty first in white lycra with white lace as a muslin. This muslin is very wearable, so now I made this one to go with the bra. I like the way the two fabrics fit together.

Further I finished the panties for my daughter, the dark blue capri for myself was finished more then a week ago, but I could not make a good picture of this as the fabric is so dark.

So, what's up next? I have so many ideas, too many fabrics and of course lacking time.
I think of making my DKNY dress in a plain fabric, and altering the skirt and make it wide with godets. Want to make shorts, t-shirts et…

Bra construction

One of the things I'm making at the moment is a Sewy pattern for myself. As I mentioned earlier, I usually make bra's from a pattern that is drafted to my own measurements. But I like exploring and trying, so that's why I bought a few commercial patterns in the past years. Plus, like most women I think, it's nice to have different models.

The Sewy pattern called "Linda" has very different cups. That's why I bought it about two years ago. I made it then as a wearable muslin from brown lycra and lace. But though the fit of the cups was right, the overall feeling was not good. On the underside the elastic flipped to the inside and the side cups in lace were not interfaced, which made it not strong enough for my D cup.
I left it at that but the pattern remained on my mind and I decided to make it again, altering the pattern.

The main change to the pattern for the cup so that the wire chanelling was not flipped towards the cups, but outward (as I'm used to do…

Sewing Saturday - 2

By now it is Sunday evening here, and I did finish my dress last night, but it was about 12 and I wanted to go to bed, as this morning I had to rise early too.
The finishing took quite some time, but I love the way it looks inside. It's a pity that no one will see this side of the dress, so let's post a picture here.



A full review of this dress I've written on PatternReview.
I like this dress, and think I should wear dresses more often. This summer is called "the summer of the dress" I think, so what's keeping me?

Sewing Saturday!

Unbelievable, I have a Saturday for myself, and guess what I'm doing? Sewing of course. My daughter wanted to stay a weekend with my mother and she went there by train yesterday. Children grow up fast! She's 13 (this summer 14) and this was her first trip by train alone. I took her to to station, there was no change of trains, and my sister, who lives close to my mother, collected her from the station there. It's not a very long journey, a little over an hour, but I was glad to hear she arrived safely.
And today my son has a hockey tournament, and my husband went with him, so at 8 o'clock this morning I had the house alone.

After some cleaning I started sewing by the arithmetic of Nancy's comment on Cidell's blog: 15 minutes of cleaning is 1 hour sewing. I cleaned for an hour, so.....

I'm making the DKNY dress I posted on earlier and making it of a linen fabric. Earlier this week I made a muslin. I traced the pattern from a 14 at the top, to a 18 at the hip.


Fr…

Yahoo photo's

Yesterday, before writing the Sewy bra review at Pattern Review I wanted to upload the photo's to the Yahoo photo service I use. Then I was informed by the system that this service is being discontinued and I have to move my photo's. Just now I have chosen to move them to Flickr. I guess this will mean that I have to edit all the links in my reviews on Pattern Review. Not looking forward to that time consuming task.

But the bra is finished! I'm very lucky to have a shop with lingerie notions in the town I live, so I could buy shoulderstraps at the same time as some daily shopping. The wires make the bra look a bit strange, but on my daughter it's fine.



And below are bra's from the fabrics and notions bought at Kantje Boord, on which I posted earlier. These are made with the Merckwaerdigh pattern I reviewed earlier. It's unbelievable what you can make out of 2 meters of lycra. Now I moved on to a bra for myself combining these fabrics, which I like, but my daughe…

Some days...

everything just doesn't go the way you would like to.

I was at work (from home) and trying to get a job started that has been on my mind for too long. Today I would make a good start. Apparently this was not a good day for this, I had to get a few more stones for workmen changing our drive, dear daughter came home from school 2 hours earlier, a lot of phone calls (both private and work related, sometimes it's easier not to work from home).
Then tonight I tried to make a bra from a new pattern for my daughter. Difficult descriptions, in German too, so in the end I just tried it my own way. After ripping some seams and even cutting a few pieces again (no good day!) it went rather smoothly, but ended up with having no shoulder straps in white to finish. Arghhh. I always have white shoulderstraps somewhere (I thought).

This is a picture of the bra so far on my pressing ham.
It's a Sewy pattern. When it's finished I'll write a review.


Vintage /OOP patterns

Recently I bought 2 vintage patterns on E-bay. One is the Ralph Lauren top of 1986 that I just completed. The other the Anne Klein dress from the nineties above that will be one of my next projects (view A).

I never bought a vintage pattern before (and the 80’s don’t sound very vintage to me, when do you call a pattern vintage?), but this top appealed to me because it reminded me of the Burda top with similar shoulders that I made a few weeks ago. The reason for searching on e-bay for a vintage/out of print pattern was that some time ago my mother found an envelope with an old pattern in it that was mine. I had lent it to her (must be over 20 years ago) and now I have it back. I had totally forgotten about this pattern and having it back brought back a lot of memories (not only those that I share below).
The pattern in the envelope was the pants part of Vogue 2854, a Claude Montana combination of blouse, jacket and pants. I was a great admirer of this designer in those days and I think…

Arm hole adaption

The top is finished, this is the result, a review I posted on Patter Review.


It's e very explicit print, that I would not choose normally. I bought it from EmmaOneSock, and there are more swirls then assumed. But for this top it seemed fine, and for me it is. This print does not require a pattern with many design details.

First I completed the adaption of the pattern. The sewing books did not solve the problem how to correct the extra width on my front armhole. But with common sense I came to this method of working:


Pinned a piece of fabric under my arm and marked the armhole line I wantedCut the fabric at the line of the added dartMarked the pinned line on the muslin fabric
Drafted the lines of the adapted armhole the back and front patternDrafted the "dart" on the front part, and moved the extra width to the side dartAs last point I redrafted the point of the dart a little higher, as the bust point on the pattern was lower than mine.
In the last picture above you can see t…

A vintage pattern

The muslin of the Burda top is thrown away. I'm not convinced that this will be a good top for me. This really is the last time I tried a top with a front with a twist or a knot. Pity, I like them so much.

Good, that meant 1 basket to fill, and this it is:
A Ralph Lauren pattern from 1986.


The pattern is a size 12, which is my size if I go by high bust measurement, but have to do an FBA (so glad I found the Pattern Review site last year, I did not know about taking high bust measurement before as starting point for a top).
I traced the pattern two weeks ago, and waited the arrival of the book Fitting Finesse from Nancy Zieman, that I bought on e-bay. I'd like to know more of adjusting pattern, and already have the book Fast Fit of Sandra Betzina. Then Nancy of Encue Creations showed Fitting Finesse on her blog, and I asked her if there was a different way of doing a FBA in this book. She kindly replied that there was a difference and that it was well worthwhile to have this book.…