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Showing posts from June, 2011

Mwah – not enthousiastic

The past week I spent my sewing time with this jacket from Knip Mode March. I liked it mostly from the line drawing, as the pictures don’t show it too clear. Though it’s a good example what a different look you get from using a differnt fabric or when wearing another style clothes with it. It has sleeve vents, single welt pockets and a collar with a corner taken out of it (don’t know how to say this in English). The fabric I used was from my stash, bought last year in a sale for about the same price as muslin fabric. I skipped the muslin stage for that reason, just wanted to see how an unaltered size 40 would be on me. That size is the correct bust size for me. My experience with Knip Mode is that I don’t have to alter the length above the waist, as they draft for taller women than Burda does. That assumption was right, but I don’t quite like the result on other points. And strange enough: half way this week when I tried it on I thought it was better.  
The bust dart is not in the rig…

The Chanel style jacket

is finished. After making the muslin end of December, it took me till last week to finish it. I was sidetracked by other projects and life during the past months. The only thing missing is the chain in the hem, which I didn’t have and will add later.I wrote a full review on PR here. Here are the pictures:I did give extra thread below the buttons, but could still be a bit more. I really like the waist shaping, a detail I added. The original is very boxy, which is not so good for me.Looking serious again, and in need of a new haircut very soon.The special detail of this pattern, the 3-piece sleeve.The back, think it turned out quite nice.A glitch in the instructions. In step 82 you are told to attach the facingn with catchstitches, in step 88 you have to fold it out again. Took some unpicking almost invisible stitches. Did not quite like that. Also in step 89 the instructions omit to tell to attach the lining to the sleeve till the top, while in an earlier step it says start 10 cm lower…

Dress and cardigan

Two weeks ago, after my ling erie set and in my desperate mood that my sewing was not going the way I wanted I went shopping for some notions and came home with two fabrics and two patterns. More or less to console myself and to get a quick start. The Burda pattern I just cut, instead of tracing it, what I usually would do. Though I was not completely taking risks, I made a quick muslin of the upper half of the dress to make sure there was enough space in the bust area and to see how the armhole would be. Burda is very consistent in sizing and this time I took the size 42 for the upper part, tapering down to 46 at the hip area. It was almost right the first time. I took out 1 cm in the back arm hole because it had a little gaping problem and took out half a centimeter of the back shoulder at the side of the arm.  Otherwise I didn’t change anything. The waist is not completely “fitted”. There is a bit of extra space. Enough accent on my waist as it is now, think that if I fitted it mor…

Waistband construction

Thank you all who commented on my previous post asking how to change a straight waistband to a shaped waistband. It’s been very, very helpful. This time I used an existing pattern (Vogue 1066, a Badgley Mischka suit) but now also know how to do it from scratch. I placed the sideseam notch on my pattern pieces and adapted to the length of the pattern.  The fabric was bought at the Antwerpen fabric market during PR weekend. It’s a bit heavy and has a lot of drape. Also the waistband (which is partially on the bias from being so shaped/curved) tends to stretch a lot. My solution to remove the stretch from the waistband was inspired by a technique in the book "Couture sewing techniques” that I wrote about earlier. It’s not a technique from the book, but only inspired by. The fusible interfacing that will be ironed to the front band is cut with the center front on the grain. The center back is almost on the bias. I’ve cut another interfacing piece from silk organze, but with the cente…