Sunday, May 27, 2007

Burda pants 2

The pants are done. A complete review is on PatternReview. I like it a lot, it feels very much like summer.
Must admit that when I saw the picture of the back that I posted in an earlier review, this made me want to stop. What was I thinking, white! It looks enormous. Not good for me.
Didn't I read the article in the last Threads issue about seeming slimmer in dark colors (as if I didn't know that, I have everything: dark brown/blue, black). But sometimes you want something else. Now I'm glad I continued making these pants, as I think it's fine as it is. It does not make me thin, but that's something I know. Together with a good top it is great.

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Burda June


It was after all a week without much sewing. I spent long hours behind my computer and finished a job with a deadline for today at about 4.30 this afternoon. Pffff.
Tonight I spent a little time sewing, and my pants are now lined. Tomorrow I hope to finish it.

And the June Burda arrived in the mail today. A few lovely tops and I absolutely fell in love with this jacket. Like the skirt too, but that one is not for me. Only Burda says that the waist of the jacket is a bit higher then usual. Which means a lot of redrafting, because normally I have to lower the waist of Burda patterns by 3-5 cm. Not for now, but I will remember this pattern! It will make a nice jacket just after the summer.


And my daughter likes this one (make it soon please).

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Burda pants

As I thought, the welts of this pants took as much time as the rest of the construction. It took me 1 1/2 hour. The result is this, with the welts still held together with a zigzag stitch:
For the construction I mainly used the method described by Ann Steeves (Gorgeous Things) in a Threads article last year. I think you can find it on her blog as well (but you have to search, I can't find it right now).

As for the pants itself, here are some pictures of how it is without waistband still. Lining has to be added too.

The front and waist are OK, only the back has folds, I hope they disappear when I add the waistband and pull up the center back a few millimeters.

Anyone any idea how to get those folds away?

Monday, May 21, 2007

Designer fabric?


In my post last week I showed two lycra fabrics for lingerie. I thought I saw this fabric used in RTW, but didn't remember exactly. But I do keep leaflets as source for inspiration, and found it. The same fabric is used by the label Marie Jo.
It's exactly the fabric I bought last week. I can't make this cup, but will try to copy the little center detail when making my bra.

And fun to know: buying 1 bra and 1 panty would cost about 90 euro (approx. 120 US dollar).
For lycra and notions I only spent approx. 25 euro ($33). And this is certainly enough for1 bra and 2 panties for myself, and 2 bra's and 4 panties for my daughter. Well, I need time to make them, but that is the fun part for me.

Friday, May 18, 2007

Currently working on ....

Yesterday was a holiday here and I took a day off too (as I mostly work from home I can plan my own working times).
Did less than I had hoped on my sewing plans, as finishing my Vogue top gave more complications then I cared to mention in my PR review. Everything went wrong: the neckbinding double serged, puckers, coverstitch problems etc. But I'm satisfied with the final result. It is at least a shirt out of my personal SWAP plan completed.

Next are a couple of lingerie sets for my daughter, she liked the fabrics as much as I thought she would. Cut those out last night as well as the white linen from my SWAP.

I'm going to make this Burda pants that has a beautiful detail in the waist. The welts will probably take as much time as the rest.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Adding to stash

What do you think of these fabrics for sewing a set of bra and panties for both my daughter and myself? The green/yellow notions for my daughter,the lilac for me.
Today I went to Kantje Boord, it's a lingerie makers heaven. Bought not only this combination, as no one could leave that shop with only one combination, I am sure. Lucky thing for my purse I only had one hour to shop.

Now back to sewing (if work permits).

Monday, May 14, 2007

Vogue 8323 does not work for me

Saturday late at night I cut view A of Vogue 8323, view A and sew it together swiftly. Some weeks ago I made view C and had some fitting issues, which I described in my review on PR. All in all I considered that for this fabric (mentioned in my earlier post in which I described my personal SWAP) I should use size 12 for the shoulders and 14 for the bust, and not doing a FBA. This was a correct decision.
So far so good.


Not good: the pattern for view A. On the envelope it gives the idea of a high neckline, but do the designers really think that the height from the base of the neckline to the top should be 13 cm (5 inch)? I did not think of this when cutting, only afterwards of course.

On trying this was the result: the first picture shows the top as it is using the pattern, strange wrinkles in the neck area. In the second picture I folded the neckline to see whether this would help. Could be, but the seamline of the shoulder came too far to the front, plus the drape of the fabric did not work anymore. Very angry at myself for not trying this on another fabric and very sorry to loose a fabric that I am very fond of I laid it down.












But today I just thought of the fact that the center front has a lot of fabric, as it is folded double and saw that it is possible to make view C instead. So I just had coffee and the 8 o'clock news together with this top and a seam ripper and cut the front part out. Grrrr. It was all serged! Took a bit longer then the 8 o'clock news. To be continued.....

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Burda top finished

Just finished my top. A complete review of this is added to PR. When I bought this fabric a month ago, I just thought of vertical and horizontal stripes and using this fabric as a hopefully wearable muslin.
But the article of Ann Steeves (Gorgeous Things) in the current Threads issue made me go a bit further and I changed the grain line for the upper front part and collar too. Took me quite long to cut the pattern, because when there are stripes involved, I want to match them accurately (see picture on the right).

As said in my review, next time I will use a plain color, but I like the pattern of this top.

Friday, May 11, 2007

Do you see all pictures?

Just now I checked my blog in IE7 and saw that not all pictures can be seen. Normally I use Mozilla Firefox as browser, so I didn't see this before. When you do not see all the pictures, please let me know which browser you're using. Then I can check.
Thanks, Sigrid

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Burda top

The current project is a Burda WOF top, number 104 from March 2006. When buying this issue last year I really liked it, and never made it (how many projects do you fancy and in the end find you have no time/fabric, some other project took priority .....?).
But it has been on my mind now a couple of weeks, and started to make a bra that will not show the shoulder straps. That set is in my drawer for 4 weeks already! Suppose it says something about me, starting with the bra instead of the top. (I confess that lingerie making is addictive).

It is a Burda pattern, so no seam allowance, which I don't mind. For
critical items like collars I always cut off the seam allowances from patterns that include them as working with the actual seamlines is much more accurate (personal opinion of course).

This is the way I work with most patterns that not include seam allowances:
I use tracing paper and a special tool, of which I don't know the English name.
On the photo you see a sheet of a much used tracing paper. One sheet lasts very long.


  1. Cut the pattern pieces (usually double), with the pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. If pattern piece must be cut from a single layer, it must be at the right side of the fabric.

  2. Trace the pattern piece with tracing paper under your fabric in a color that you can't see from the right side of the fabric, pattern pinned to the fabric. Mark darts and other important markings on the pattern.
  3. Remove the pattern paper
  4. Turn the two pieces of fabric. With slippy fabric or stripes (like my photo) you might like to use pins to keep the pieces together very accurately.
  5. Trace over the first tracing line
  6. Ready
Of course you must be careful with white or delicate fabrics. I try to use white tracing paper on white fabric. But always test the combination of fabric/tracing paper.

For collars, cufs etc. that will have a fusible interfacing, I cut out the exact pattern piece, and iron this between the traced lines. Very accurate and no extra bulk when turning the collar or cuff.

Hope this is helpful.




Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Libraries

Not much sewing today. But I went to the library and took home the bound Burda WOF issues of January-June 2004. Good that there are libraries that bind those magazines!

2004 was a year in which we moved, and I didn't look much into sewing magazines at the time and in those years mostly sewed for my two children. (But as they grow up they mostly prefer rtw clothes.)
So I saw a nice variation on the twisted top, with the twist higher up then the famous twist top from the April 2005 issue that has so much positive reviews in PatternReview. Also this top is reviewed mostly positively I saw just now, and think I may try it.

Also bought lycra and lace for a new lingerie set in a local shop.
Just could not resist.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

A personal SWAP

On PatternReview.com and some other sites there's a lot going on about SWAP. I certainly like the idea, but the rules for the contest do not suit me. Recently I have added quite a few fabrics to my stash that can be combined together or with clothes I already have. But not all fabrics match together. To make a new plan with 11 garments all to be combined is too much for me now.

My personal SWAP containes the following fabrics in the white/blue colors (to be combined with a dark blue jacket I have).

The white is a linen that will be the BWOF pants 109 from February 2006, it has a special closing on the waistband. I want to use the piped buttonhole technique for this from the class with Kenneth D. King I followed this week.

The "pucci" print is from EmmaOneSock. Beautiful drape and very suitable for Vogue 8323, view A.











This stripe I bought in a local sale, it has a fine metallic silver stripe in it that is not visible at the photo.It also has a bit of stretch and the stripes can be used vertical or horizontal.
I'm not sure yet which blouse I'll make from this. Might be a classic shirt (vogue 2634 with short sleeves), but not sure yet.

To these 3 I want to add a dark blue capri pants, but I'll have to find pattern and fabric yet.




This dotted black will be Burda blouse 127 from the March issue of 2005
I bought it to combine with the skirt I made from a Gorgeous things fabric with large dots a few weeks ago (see review of this skirt) but it can easily be combined with the white linen pants.





















Another combination is with beige (tan?) colors.

This is a beige linen that I will make into either a skirt or capri pants.
The blouse is a cotton stripe that is my next project. Burda March 2006, 104.
It can be combined with dark blue, turquoise (I do have pants in that color), light brown or green or dark pink (not really my color though).



This cotton stretch will combine with white, beige, brown, grey and black of course. Also for this fabric I have no definite plans, it will be a tee of some sort.

Skirt finished


My skirt is finished. The invisible zipper and the seam below the zipper took some time, but the result is fine.
I'm not so fond of the finished skirt on myself. After all the fabric would have looked better with a wider pattern. But it was a good experience working with this voile.









How to combine a french seam and invisible zipper?
This was my main concern before I left the project for more than a week.
In the end I did it as follows:
  1. machinebasted the fabric to the lining, to treat it as one layer
  2. inserted the invisible zipper using my special foot for inserting invisible zippers
  3. cut the seam 3 cm below the zipper
  4. made the french seam
  5. manually stitched to close the 3 cm

Pin marks the end of the zipper, first stitching of French seam is done














Finished zipper from the outside












Finished zipper from the inside

Monday, May 7, 2007

Returned


Last week was holiday week for my family and me. We had wonderful weather that is very unusual here in May. On returning I found my roses flowering, normally that would be in June! Though I started this blog about sewing, I can't resist placing this picture of one of the most wonderful roses "Abraham Darby" (gardening is another hobby of mine).






For the first time I took my sewing machine with me. And as lingerie are the only items I sew without also using a serger, I made two sets this week. Very happy with those. Here are pictures of my bras.










Both bras were made with the same pattern. For the blue one I changed the pattern so that it is a partial band bra.
I might make a tutorial for that sometime in the near future.