Friday, July 1, 2016

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings


Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.
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Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back
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Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece
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Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch
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Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.
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Step 4: Turn and press
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Step 5: with right sides together, pin the front shoulder to the back shoulder. The edge of the neckline should be exactly match the stitch line of the back neckline.
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Step 6: Fold the back facing over the shoulder seam and stich the seam
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Step 7: Stitch the armhole of the back and back facing. Be careful not to catch the front in the seam and the stitchline at the shoulder must exactly match the edge of the front inside. I started with a regular machine and only then serged the seam.
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Opened up it looks like this
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Step 9: Stich the side seam and the side seam of the facings in one pass
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Step 10: turn and hem
Ready!