Thursday, September 19, 2019

Black beauty bra

I totally forgot I hadn't put a post up on my latest bra. It's the black beauty pattern by Emerald Erin. A bit different by the external "power bar". When seeing the line drawing I had a little doubt, as it looked a bit low on the upper cup. But that's different for my size.

For the size I went with the size 32F at first and made that cup of a remnant and sewed it into a band of a bra that was not good. Then I did the same with the 32FF cup and that promised to be ok. Isn't this a fun look ;)?

I followed the name of the pattern with my choice of fabrics and lace. The lace has been around a long time and somehow I always was reluctant to use it. Good for a trial version of this pattern. 

The pattern has several views and can also be made with foam. I did not use foam (though I might try it at some point). I made the all lace version (view B) and love the result. The instructions are very good. I've followed along, even though I've made many bras before. The only thing that could have been better are the notches/marking of the under cup. An indication of center front and upper/under side would have been good imho. 
The back is different from what I usually make, but after a day of wearing has my approval, the external power bar has a slightly slimming effect (pushing the breasts a bit more inward).

I'm very happy with this bra, there will be more variations (soon  I hope).

Wednesday, September 4, 2019

Sewing lingerie again

Lingerie sewing has been on the backburner for a pretty long time. Somehow I didn't feel inspired and a complete failure with a bra last year didn't help. The bra below was finished last week. It had been cut months ago (March?) and was around in my sewing room since.

I didn't use a pattern, but copied a rtw bra that has a good fit. A good way to start sewing lingerie again, as a lot of the patterns I used before are not the perfect fit any more. So the quest for good fitting bra patterns starts again. I'm in the middle of trying a new pattern (and new to me indie designer) for a bra and I hope to be able to show you the results soon.

I went to the famous Kantje Boord shop in Amsterdam today. The best source for inspiration too. And of course lovely fabrics! My intention was to buy black based lace. Think I've succeeded ;).

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Random projects

This post contains pictures of a few projects I made in the past months. I didn't take notes of any details, so present them with their line drawing and only minor details.

StyleArc - Sadie top
I've made this before and made a verwion for myself and one for my daughter (the striped version).


Vogue 8972, also a dress I made before in plain linen fabric. This time around I made it in a print, but as not to lose the design lines, I used piping at the waistline, the neckline and the armholes. Definitely a more formal dress. Made from cotton with a touch of lycra, very comfortable to wear. One of my favorites at the moment when I need a formal dress.

This is from the July 2019 issue of Knip mode, pattern no 11. The pattern has a center front seam, but I cut it on the fold.
A trial run as the fabric was a bit brighter than I thought (online fabric shopping has its surprises). It's a nice top and I made it in plain white too.

Wednesday, August 21, 2019

Vogue 1183 less formal

Vogue 1183 has been in my pattern collection for a long time. It's a lovely dress by Kay Unger. Very nice design lines with waist accent.

The only "problem": it's a more formal style and in my life I have only limited need for formal dresses.
At some point I was inspired to make this dress in denim and use topstitching in another color, as done on jeans. Unfortunately I didn't take notes on size used or changes made, I just have two pictures that I shared with my sewing friends on Whatsapp. I moved the center back zipper to the side and am certain that I took it in on the center back neckline, as I usually do. The waist is interfaced and has two layers of fabric to give it more stability.

It's a dress I loved to wear this summer. I did not line it and it was cool on a hot day. As you can see in the first picture the fabric was not very thick. For me a good combination of fabric and pattern.

Tuesday, August 20, 2019

Sweater with cables

Hello dear readers, nice to see you here again.

I've restyled my blog a little, not completely there yet but for the moment it's working. In my absence I've been sewing and knitting and will try to catch up a little. Quite a bit of what I did in sewing was basics like t-shirts, summer trousers etc. I'll skip those and in the upcoming posts I'll highlight a few more interesting garments.

This post is about a sweater (jumper in UK English) I knitted. Like the sweater I showed last year it's knitted with the ziggurat technique, developed by Asa Tricosa.
I simply love this way of knitting a sweater. It gives good opportunity to fit while knitting but most important: look at the way the armholes/sleeves are done. The definition of a seamline, but they are knitted (top down)  at the same time as the front and back of the sweater.


I incorporated the pattern Piper by Carol Sunday in a ziggurat (with a few minor adaptions). I loved combining this. Doing that is certainly keeping your mind of other worries!

Friday, March 15, 2019

Just checking in

Two and a half months in 2019 and no post here. Just checking in now to say that I did not move to another blog (in case you're wondering because that was one of the options I considered end of last year) but life has thrown me a few lemons that can't be turned into lemonade easily.
Personally I'm fine and hope to be back within the sewing community later in the year. For now I keep it to sewing but not taking photos and blogging about it.

See you later!

Thursday, December 20, 2018

How to sew a fly front zipper (including pocket lining)

There are several variations and a lot of tutorials on how to sew a fly front in a pair of jeans/pants. This is my take on it, a combination of how I learned it long ago, instructions for Jalie jeans, a video tutorial by Jennifer Stern (which I can't find now) and just doing it for a long time now.

The steps that I show:
  • Are for a pair of womens' jeans/pants, closure with the right side over the left side.
  • Use a pocket that is extended to the center front, the steps for the pocket are not shown. 
  • Can be used with regular pockets, just follow the instructions except where I mention that
  • The pocket extension has 0.5 cm seam allowance at the center front for the left and is cut at the center front without seam allowance for the right side

The steps:
Fold the fly (it usually is a pattern piece that is cut on the fold) and finish the seams. Sew the zipper on top, stitching only the side that's closest to the finished edge. (My zipper is a bit longer than necessary, I'll cut it shorter after attaching the waist band)

Finish the seams of the front pattern pieces. I use a cut-on facing on the right side, the overlapping side on a womens' pair of pants. If you prefer you can use a separate facing, you'll have to sew that on as a separate step.

Pin the pocket/lining in place, the left side has the small amount of seam allowance as described above. (if your pockets are not extended to center front, omit this step)

Sew the center front until the point where the zipper will end.

Fold and press the right side on the center line. Make sure the pocket on the inside is aligned with center front. Topstitch till the crotch.

On the inside it looks like this:

I like to sew in the zipper a little off-center. Fold the left 0.5 cm beyond the center and press. Pin the zipper with the fly in place. Sew on the edge.

Pin center front of the right leg to the center front of the left leg.

On the inside, fold away the fly and pin the zipper to the facing of the right side. Only to the facing!!
Sew the zipper tape to the facing. The zipper is attached, the topstitching in the next steps does not have to be on the zipper tape, only on the facing.

I mark the end of my zipper with chalk, placing a pin to mark first. This way I know where the end of the zipper is. Especially important if you use a metal zipper, which would break your needle if you would hit in while topstitching.

Topstitching on the inside, normal thread so not very visible. Notice the topstitching is only on the facing, not on the zipper tape.

Fold the fly in place and sew a few bar tacks.
Inside after making bar tacks. At the top of the photo you see the chalk marker and the little brush I use to remove the chalk lines.