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Inside of dress 1351

An update with a few photos of the inside of Vogue 1351. The lining has a deep neckline with darts, to which the cowl of the dress is sewn. No seam edges visibleI made sure the dress was folded a bit inward at the armholes and the edges were understitched as far as possible. The light blue was the only colour I had available and as you don’t see the lining from the right side, it works well.The lining with the darts keep the dress close to the body. No unwanted exposure when moving in this dress. I really love this pattern and am thinking of making another one soon.PS: in my previous post I mentioned making a center back seam, that was not on this dress, but on another one.
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Dress Vogue 1351

I first became aware of this dress a while ago when Carolyn (from Handmade by Carolyn) made a lovely version in navy and pink. She also mentioned that the lining of this dress was so beautifully drafted and the pattern thus has a neat finish on the inside. This got me intrigued. As it was OOP by then, I asked my friends whether they had a copy of this, but no one had. One of them found it soon after in a second hand shop and gave the pattern to me. YEAH!! (thanks again Sheila). It’s an easy dress to make. I traced a size 16 for the body, compared that with my sloper and it was very close. I tapered to a larger size for the waist/hip area but trimmed that off later as it became shapeless. It indeed has a lovely finish on the inside, of which I now realise I haven’t taken photos yet.As my fabric is a non-stretch fabric of unknown material I did sew in the side zipper, as indicated by the pattern. With the front and skirt being cut on the bias, the fabric made strange pleats around the z…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

A basic collection of (mostly) Burda patterns

A month ago I published a post about planning some production sewing and having cut 5 garments. I challenged myself to finish them in 2 weeks…. good plan, no surprise really that it didn’t work. But….I’ve finished all garments and there’s not one left as a ufo. Which is what has happened to me more than once when I’ve cut multiple garments. So today is un update post on those 5 items and a little extra that I did prior to those. More record keeping than very interesting I guess, as these are more or less basic items. 1 pants / trousersThe grey one was done earlier, the other two were in the set of 5. All linen, all from this Burda pattern from the March 2012 issue. This pattern has a nice fit for me, though I made the leg width significantly smaller. For the white version this was my inspiration:I’m a little disappointed about the visibility of the pockets, as I lined this pair. I think/hope it will be a bit less visitble in real life, as I think photos accentuate more.2 skirts. The o…

Burda skirt–May 2012

Browsing BurdaStyle online I saw a skirt pattern I liked very much, but from an old issue that I don’t have. I tried to buy the pdf pattern but their system blocked (tried it twice, called my bank and they saw I tried to pay it and assured there was nothing wrong at their end). Then a sewing friend came to the rescue who has this issue and traced it for me (Viv, again a huge thank you!). It was not in my set of patterns I cut in a batch a few weeks ago, almost finished those and update on those items soon. With warmer weather finally arrived here I just had to make this skirt, sewed on the buttons last night and am actually wearing it now. At the time I might have thought this was not a skirt that was very current, at least I don’t remember seeing wide skirts for a while. They definitely are around again and this is a great pattern. Burda often is fashion forward!The pocket is very easy, no need for a single welt construction here. It’s between two seams so you just sew the pocket to …

Jacket Vogue 1439

Over a month ago I showed this jacket in a nearly finished state. Took me two weeks to finish it for real and took another two weeks to get pictures.  The fabric doesn’t behave very well in pictures but I’m happy with the spring vibe it has. Having worn one of my self drafted jackets today and seeing these pictures now I can see that this jacket is too wide in the shoulder area and could have been a little better fitting in general. Sometimes I just don’t want to do all the drafting, but for jackets I really should take the trouble of drafting or make a muslin. This time it was the collar part that I was unsure of and wanted to start and use a pattern. I’ll wear this, it’s just a little moaning amongst sewing friends that it could have been better. The upper part of the back is too wide as well, the lower part is fitting well.For those who have the pattern and might want to sew it: the pattern pieces and instructions for this were a little strange in my opinion. There’s a separate fac…

Welt pocket with angled seams

It was fun to read your answers to the post with the picture of the strange pattern piece. Very good those of you who were close or knew the answer! The welt is also called “origami welt”, I believe Kenneth D. King calls it that. Its main feature is that the seams are not at the sides of the welt, but as you saw in my previous post, on the back. It makes for a welt with less bulk.Below the steps I took to make the pattern piece for it:This is the original pattern piece, with foldline and straight of grain indicated.On the part that will be the back of the welt, two lines are drawn where the seam lines will be. To clarify I’ve marked the seams with line notches.The seam lines are cut and added to the front part of the weltThe final pattern piece, in paper and in fabric as shown in my “riddle” post. The fabric one is the mirror image, with seams added.Sew the seams, matching the notches (I added 1cm seams to the pattern piece and made the edge match)Trim to the points and press. Turn th…