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Showing posts from May, 2008

Read patterns

Lindsay T has an amusing story of "reading patterns" in her student days and a nice poll on her blog about which sewing resource you use most. Her post inspired me to write this.It was a difficult choice for me between online resources and sewing books (I voted online resources). I did learn a lot from the sewing books I bought the last two years ( and these I bought mostly by recommendations of other bloggers), and from the 25 year old Burda book that still regularly helps me out. But as those of you who read my blog for some time already know, I'm quite fond of all resources that can be found on the internet on blogs or websites like Threads magazine. This magazine is a wealth of information too, I bought 4 older issues this week on E-bay, amongst which the issue on the construction of a Chanel jacket.Pattern reading is something I do when I use a Vogue or Butterick pattern (which is not so very often), usually to see whether there is something special to learn. Last y…

Knock off top - second muslin

I finished my second muslin for my knock off top. My first muslin you can see in this post.This time I used a cotton knit, which had less drape than the first fabric for the muslin, which you can see clearly. And I sewed one seam on the front to the outside. Well, it's only a muslin.I took out a bit too much width in the top of the back and could take out a bit more in the lower back. The most important change is the space I took out in the lower part of the front, this is an improvement to fit. With a fabric that has more drape, a centimeter or two added at bust level and a bit added to the back I think I can make it from a good fabric. Now to find a good knit with a lot of drape!Speaking of fabrics. Today I received my fabric from Textile Studio Patterns, which is the prize I won for the jacket in the  Knock off contest on Pattern Review in March. Its a beautiful fabric. Marsha (of Textile Studio Patterns) doesn't say too much with this description: "Bundles of tan, lat…

This and that

When my daughter saw the Amy Butler free pattern for a business card keeper she wanted to try it, but as all sizes were in inches, and the instructions too difficult for her, she asked me to do it (it's an ideal pattern for cards of credit-card size, not only business cards). Having finished my blouse (pictures still to be taken) and not in the mood to start something else yesterday evening, I said yes.This is the result.Part of the fabric is cut in the wrong direction, as my perception of what the direction of the parts was, wasn't correct. The instructions are very different from what I'm used to, and require careful reading.
I must say that I quit the project yesterday halfway, as it didn't make sense to me any more. Cause must have been Friday night after a few days of very hard work, and I was very, very tired. These instructions must be read carefully and line by line, and I marked the lines that I finished. What I don't like is being told each time that I h…

How to sew a side pocket with topstitching

In my Knip dress I made a side pocket, mostly by the instructions of my old Burda sewing book. I topstitched it, which was not included in the instructions. As I like this way of working, I'll show you how I did this (instructions for right side of garment, change directions for left side)Sew the side seam, make large stitches between the points for the opening and make a few backstitches  at the start en end of the opening.Press the seam openSew the pocket parts to the sides half a centimeter from the edge.
On the left side the lining fabric, on the right side the garment fabric (if you want a difference, for example with thick fabric)Press the lining pocket at the seamline towards the garment.
Clip the seam on the right side with a diagonal cut, this prevents loose threads.Turn to the right side, you can now topstitch the pocket. Either from top to bottom, or like I did with a bar-tack on top and end of the opening.On the wrong side of the garment, lay the pocke…

The Great Coat Sew Along

As many of you will have read on other blogs already, Marji started a blog with a sew along for a wintercoat. The idea is to sew a wintercoat, and plan early, so that it's ready by September. Butterick 4665Vogue 8465I'll post a bit on my coat here on my own blog too, so for those following the TGCSA-blog too, it's mostly a double post.In the sew-along May is the period for gathering materials, for me it's the decision of what to make. I'm one of those who have to buy the materials for the coat, so deciding on which coat to make is the first thing for me.I'm not an experienced seamstress when it comes to coats. I made my first coat in many many years (a Marfy pattern) last year, and in the end didn't wear it that much at all. Main problem is that the slit in the back and the position of the last button on that coat give a bit strange opening when walking in it. So this time I want a coat that I'll wear.Looking for a pattern for a winter coat now very muc…

What am I working on?

The knock off top is on hold till next weekend. I made the lining and the fit is better, but now is clear that the drape is not as good as I thought. Patsijean kindly sent me some helpful information, and I will redraw the pattern.Last week I went through my closet, took out all clothes and had a good look at them: which are old, out of style, not as I like them to be etc. The result was a lot of bags that go to goodwill, and a clear sight of what was left and what was missing. One thing was very clear: almost no blouses with short sleeves left, and there is no clear style of things I wear, nor a definite colour scheme. Too many "lonely items". A blouse that has no matching skirt any more, a skirt without matching top... I hope to define my colourscheme better next week, as I will go with a friend to a workshop to define your colours. I'm very curious to learn what those are, and very decided to make a better wardrobe, both in style and colour. Not within a month, mind y…

Tutorials (sorry, again)

A work project was postponed and I had no sewing mojo (too hot the last couple of days, but raining now). I invested some time in setting up a new blog! It's still under construction, but if you're interested in tutorials, please visit the Sewing tutorials blog. As you can read there I gather sewing links on that blog. Try the embellishment category for how it's going to look.

From now on I will take a bit of time daily (inspired by Paula's 30 minute a day project) to add the links that are now in my sidebar.

For vintage lovers

Looking at the BWOF site I saw a link to a slideshow of pictures from a 1966 issue.
Very feminine, lovely patterns.
This is one example of many.

Knip dress finished

I finally finished the Knip dress, happy with the result, but not so much with the pattern.
You can read the full review here.

Comments and questions

I'm really grateful for the reactions and suggestions to my last post about the cowl-neck knock off shirt.
Caity asked what a cowl stay is. In this post I showed a t-shirt with a cowl neck and cowl stay. I never heard of this solution before I bought Claire Shaeffer's book High fashion sewing secrets last year either. But it worked great in that shirt. I agree fully with Patsijean that this is a must-have book. And Patsijean, I would very much appreciate if you could scan a few pages. It will help me decide whether I will buy this book. I'm gradually increasing my sewing library and as I'm in the Netherlands no opportunity to find such books in a library.

Jenny, I would like to receive pictures of your rtw top. If not for this top, I'm always curious how rtw clothes are made.

My e-mail adress you can find in the side bar (isedl at yahoo dot com)

The tie will not give enough support (as Lisa suggested), it gives the impression that it does, but there's too much drap…

Knock off muslin

Before my holidays I showed you this top I want to knock off. Here you can find the original on www.eluxury.com. The tie and arm-opening bands are topstitched. Thinking about what was the main issue to make this top I found that a pattern was needed with a close fitting arm opening. The cowl in front and back could be made the front pattern piece wider and longer. I decided to use this Vogue pattern, that I made last year.(I only wore the dress for the first time yesterday, as the weather was never good enough after I made it).As you can see this dress has a close fitting arm opening. Here is what I did to the pattern.For the front pattern I closed the dart in the armhole and ignored the dart in the front, thus already creating extra space in the front.
After drawing the armhole part in the back I went down 4 cm for the tie space and drew a horizontal line.Here you can see what I did to make the draping.
I cut the pattern piece in several pieces above the point where …

Back from the UK

English NederlandsI'm back from a very enjoyable stay in the south of England. We rented a cottage near Sevenoaks in Kent and saw a lot of places, beautiful gardens, made nice walks in the beautiful countryside and spent two days in London. We saw two musicals (Blood brothers and Les Mísérables) which certainly for our children was a very special event. What can I say, it's very refreshing to be away for two weeks in May. Thanks to special holidays here in the Netherlands and ascension day being so early, our children had two weeks off from school, so we decided to use those weeks. No internet access at all in those weeks, which is good too (reminds you the world goes on without it) but I did miss you all. Good to be back. If you want to see a few impressions from my holiday, I've uploaded a few pictures here. Just family holiday pictures, nothing special, but I've included pictures of my family. My husband and son are of course very important to me, but they never are…