Skip to main content

Posts

Showing posts from November, 2008

All's well that ends well

Vogue 1063 in my second version. As I told you, my jacket of 100 errors. But the endresult is quite good, so I'm very happy with this. I made bound buttonholes showing the other side of the fabric. This fabric has two " right"  sides, so I thought it was nice to make the buttonholes like this. I comtemplated doing the upper collar like that too, but decided against it. I have enough of the fabric left to make a skirt, so perhaps I'll use the black/red irregular stripes side for that. In a post of September I told you about the differences between the sleeve drawing of Vogue 1063 and 1064. For this jacket I changed the sleeve and made the pattern like the 1064  sleeve. I did change the pattern further by adding a hem allowance of 5 cm (2 inches), and make my own lining pattern. Pfff, I'll think about that a second time when doing that for a pattern that has seam allowances included.  I'm more used to working with patterns without seam allowances, and because o…

New technique again

I'm certainly not planning to be a daily blogger, but I want to share this progress with you. This is my jacket of 100 errors as I refer to it. It's Vogue 1063 and I was not too happy with the first version. There were several reasons for that, but one was the lining method I used in that jacket. So I started another version, but used a combination of tailoring techniques and finishing it with a rtw lining method: bagging a lining. As said in an earlier post, this is something I've never done before. I read about it for the first time (2 years ago) in the book Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina, which was one of the first sewing books I bought in the English language (and  still consider it as one of the best books I bought on sewing. It gave me so much inspiration for making my skills better) . After reading about several methods (Kathleen Fasanella's tutorial on the internet and the method described in "Jackets for real people"), I decided to use the method San…

Welt pocket

On Pattern Review there is a contest currently "Try a new technique", managed by NancyK. As I'm in a definitely in a no-sewing commitments phase right now, I'm not participating. But I read a bit on this thread and seeing that welt pockets are regarded as difficult. On another thread on the message board Kathleen Fasanella's method of making welt pockets was mentioned. I don't regard welt pockets as extremely difficult, as with a lot of things it just requires precise work. But I never tried Kathleens method, and it was on my to-try list. And that's what I did. The first sample is on the upper half of the picture. The welt is interfaced, the fabric is not, which makes quite a difference.On the second sample you can see that the fabric is interfaced (the flash of the camera made it visible). It's imperative for good results, even on this cotton fabric, let alone on a fabric that ravels more easily. As you probably know, you cut to the exact corners of …

Two projects finished

Last week I finished the blouse for DD and my pants. For both I wrote a short review at Pattern Review. The blouse for DD, she wore it today and managed to get a stain on it right away. So it's soaking in water right now. No chance for pictures on her (nothing to do with the stain btw).  The pants pattern in general fitted as I thought it would. As my waist is two sizes smaller than my hip size, I trace the size that I need for my hips. With BWOF that is consistent size 44, (oh how I would like that it would come down to 42, but alas, the fitness programm does help, but not too much). Next step is make the dart in the back deeper, or add a second dart in the back. I also make a dart in the front (which is seldom there to start with). The final alteration is making the crotch seam deaper, and adding the space that I took away there to the side seam. Which looks like this in a pattern.In construction I sew the center back seam as a last step (after the waistband is sewed on), which…

A single welt in back of pants

After the front pocket, the back pocket gave me some trouble too. I made the first one and had to do the topstitching around the welt (as seen in RTW ) in two passes. Not easy to work and I thought of doing it another way. In the past I've found many tutorials on (welt) pockets, but not this particular one. I decided to make the opening first and adding the welt later. Inspired by the method that Ann shows (which she described in an article in Threads too, and I've found the same technique described by Claire Shaeffer) . As I was making a sample, I made pictures so that I could share it with you.Notice my new sewing foot in the fourth picture,  it is open in the front so that you can see exactly what you do. I already know it's worth every euro I paid for it.The red is the wrong side of the fabric, the location of the welt has a lightweight fusible interfacing.
To the right the welt itself and the inner pocket (a lining fabric).
The opening is marked on …

Pants - front pocket

The pocket in the front is ready. I started with Ann's instructions for the Vogue pants. But somewhere I  was lost (the reason is most probably me, not the instructions by Ann), and I went on following my own sewing sense. When I was ready I was not satisfied by the result. Uneven and the topstitching in one corner was 1 stitch off. Time for the seam ripper, I'm not one for sewing without mistakes. And I couldn't let go of this and go on.So, an hour later, this is the pocket. It's in the same location as the first one, I unpicked all. This is how it should be, I'm satisfied with the result, so I basted it in place for further construction.I used lightweight fusible interfacing where the welt is sewn. And because I cut the welt on the bias, I interfaced the welt to prevent stretching.

Pants and UFO

Today I took a day off. This is difficult for me, as I basically work from home. Work is never far away, and in the past months often extended till late at night. Long ago I intended not to work on Wednesdays, that day would be for me: sewing, visiting a friend, shopping etc. I'm trying to get those free Wednesdays back (at least for the moment). So today I found a lot of sewing time, with nobody in the house you can do a lot.In the first picture the result for my search of a basic pattern to start another pair of pants. This is the pattern that I'll use: BWOF 05-2006-108. The waistband is shaped and it's not too wide in the upper leg. I changed the pattern to bootleg by adding space at the bottom. The pocket flap will be changed to a welt as in the Vogue pattern, and I'll add welt pockets in the back. Thanks Summerset for reminding me of the extra attention black welts will give, and you said it so subtle, but this is indeed not what I want. The pants are cut and they…

Inspiration for pants

ETA: I'm not going to make the actual Vogue pattern, I don't have it but am going to change a pattern to achieve that look.
I need some more pants, as I live in them during the winter. I'd like to buy one or two, but that is a mission impossible. From experience I know that searching for rtw pants is HIGHLY frustrating for me. It takes hours to shop and try on, and nothing fits, so I go home empty handed. In the same time it takes I can sew a basic pair that does fit (without too much details that is). But as I said in my last post, I like the RTW details, so I went snoop shopping on the internet. Granted, takes time too, but no frustration. Though there are some shops with models where I think that almost everyone without anorexia would be frustrated. Who would ever fit in their pants and still eat normal? I'm diverting.A general observation: the style is wide or skinny. The last is out of the question for me, if not for the way I'm build, then my age doesn't s…

Black pants

The black pair of pants are finished. As you all probably know, black is very difficult to photograph. The pictures DD took only show the general image, the details are completely lost. Making the image lighter didn't help. Next time I must make sure the picture is made during the daylight hours, that may be better.The detail pictures I took earlier are better, so this is what it looks like. Personally I love the combination with the red belt and shoes. The blouse is too wide rtw one. Since buying this I think fashion has changed to closer fitting blouses, or my perception of a good fitting blouse has changed. Two good white blouses needed ironing, and I was just lazy.I didn't finish the waist as described in the pattern (see picture in previous post), but closed the pleat to the top. This time I made the back welt pockets, and though not perfect, they are fine. Never use those pockets, but I like the look of a rtw detail.The waistband was finished with a bit of the red lining…

Doing easy pieces

Hi, it didn't take as long as I thought to feel better. Thank you all so much for your nice comments and some kind emails I received, it felt good to know you understood. I did sew a bit and must say that the week before I stopped blogging and the first week after I only made very stupid mistakes. We all do that from time to time, but this was clearly due to not paying attention and wanting to do things too quickly, because I "had to sew".The workload is back to normal, I started fitness again seriously and in general feel much more at ease. I can tell you my family is very happy about that. DD told me that I didn't cook properly anymore, no experiments with new recipes, just the things we know too well all the time.... And always working. Good, this was a pretty serious warning of being on the way being overworked, and I decided that I won't have that. Took some time off in the school holiday of my children, made a nice walk with DH and told myself work is impor…