Wednesday, December 30, 2020

Goodbye to the old and hello to the new

 

2020 has almost come to an end. I think you will agree that this has been a very strange year and I'm looking forward to 2021. I hope it will be a year with more joy and chances to be together more often and meet family and friends without restrictions.

I wish you a happy and healthy 2021!


There is something more though I want to share with you. 

I’ve said it before and I will say it once again now: I’m grateful for all the contacts I made through this blog, either in real life or through the comments or e-mails. Thank you for reading and following me here. This may sound as a goodbye, but it's not.

After almost 13 years, it's time to move. I started this blog in April 2007. But as with houses, after so many years you may feel it's time to move on.

I invite you to come to my new blog and if you like reading my ramblings about sewing, please follow me there.

This blog will remain as it is now. With a new blog comes a new name and it will be Stitched by Sigrid. As it’s my own site I have more options for lay-out and content. There will be the blog, for which I hope to write a bit more often than I did here in the past two years. And there will be separate pages with tutorials both in English and in Dutch. It will be work in progress in the next few months. Some of the tutorials that are in my blog posts here will be part of the new site too. 

Hope to see you at stitchedbysigrid.nl, you’re very welcome!



Thursday, December 24, 2020

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas from my house to yours. Stay safe and enjoy this time, even when it’s very different compared to other years. 




Saturday, December 19, 2020

Jeans - sewing a curved seam

I made some good progress on my jeans. The back pieces are finished and the front pockets done. 

 


The pocket has a strong curve. In most of my garments I work with the seam lines and I mark those so stitching is basically stitching over the seam lines. 

Not with this pattern, which has 5/8" seam allowances (1.5 cm) included. When sewing with default seam allowances it's important that you watch where the fabric on the plate is (where the measurements are), not the front of the foot. 
In the photo below you can see that at the position of the needle, the measurement is 5/8"to the edge of the fabric. But at the front of the foot it's more. So while sewing, you watch the position of the fabric at the point where the green arrow at the right points to.
The foot I was using here has a very convenient mark for the needle position, but it works exactly the same when your foot doesn't have it, the you'll keep an eye on the position that's in line with the needle.

'

After stitching it's trimming and clipping.


Don't clip to the stitch line! Stay away 2-3 mm from it. If you clip to the stitch line, you might get sharp corners in your curve. 




Press the pocket facing to the inside.



Topstitch and ready to continue!





Wednesday, December 16, 2020

Sewing jeans

 This past weekend I started with a new pair of jeans. I’m using the Ginger pattern in the high waist version. I see that I’ve never blogged about it. My current black pair is about two years old, not so black any more and it definitely has seen better days. Time to replace it, as I love wearing it. 

A project to do in a few steps. Today I topstitched the back pockets and have sewn them on. 

Though to be completely honest, I have topstitched a pair earlier on, but decided I didn’t  want the colour after all.


The green was my first choice, but I will do it on another pair. I realised I want to sew a cardigan to go with this which has a lot of blue in the fabric which is not a great combination with this green.

One line for the topstitching was marked using carbon tracing paper. The other lines were sewn at equal distance from this first line.



For some reason the light is very different on this last photo. Finished apart from the rivets in the corners. I’ll put those on before sewing the yoke, which will be the next step.



Wednesday, November 25, 2020

From disaster to acceptable

As we all know you sometimes want to get a little outside your comfort zone and try something new. For me this now meant sewing a different style t-shirt. The basic picture of this one is just a slight variation: v neckline, dropped shoulder but not too much, little accent line center front. The pattern is from Ottobre issue 5/2016. Let me say there's nothing wrong with the pattern, but it doesn't suit me.



Dropped shoulders are not my favorite, but felt I'd try again and thought they were not too much dropped. Wrong conclusion, the result was horrible.


I do have narrow shoulders and a full bust. Not a good combination for this.
On a positive note: I love the accent line center front. 

When I pinned the sleeve higher up, the look was beter already, even if done only provisionally.



The next thing I did was using a basic Ottobre t-shirt pattern (from a 2007 issue) and compared.


Quite a difference. I cut all the seams from the shirt, kept the hem on the bottom and on the sleeves. 


Better, although I think that the original width of the body was slightly better. For me the fit is a bit too tight in the back now and there's still a little pleat forming above the bust. It's a nice layering piece and I'll wear this version. 



The neckline was finished with a small strip of the same fabric. The construction of the original pattern was quite different and the center line a seam stitched inside out. I've cut it on the fold and stitched a very narrow "pleat".

A little detail on how I did that (I know a lot of you like this kind of detail!):

  • I pressed the center front
  • Put in a strip of water soluble material (tip: don't press with steam afterwards, it will wrinkle, look bad and give you a fright. When it's all solved it will all be straight again though! How I know.....?)
  • Stitched a straight line only a few millimeters away from the center front
  • Removed most of the soluble material
  • Continued further construction



That's become quite a long post.
Enjoy your day!






Friday, November 20, 2020

A top by my daughter

 It's been so nice to hear some of you just like to read my posts. I do realise I've been here before in the past years, which is probably something that happens occassionally when you have been doing something (in my case blogging) for so long. Sorry to have bothered you with my uncertainty and indecisiveness. 

There are a few things I will change in the near future but I'll come to that when I do it. Let's start with showing you a project that has been made recently. Partly by me, partly by my daughter.

My daughter is one of my "students". Of course she's not a paying student and it's not a weekly thing but she really likes to learn to sew. My son's girlfriend too, lucky me! I like to pass the sewing bug along and we've been sewing together a bit lately. 

She selected this top from an older Patrones magazine.

  


It was labeled "Couture facil", which means it should be an easy sew. Really? With this button placket in the back? This kind of button placket even makes me a little nervous. It's about very precise sewing and cutting and if you do it wrong, you really can see it or worse, even be so bad you want to throw the pattern piece in the bin. There was no fabric left, it had to be right first time round.

Perhaps needless to say that I did sew the placket. My daughter watched the process clearly and said she could not (yet) have done it. But the rest, from tracing to cutting the fabric pieces and finishing the neckline was done by my daughter (with a bit of guidance). She's ever so pleased with the result and has worn it with pleasure. Receiving compliments for it too!

The placket before finishing the neckline and completely sewing with buttons

.   

The sleeve with pleats

Sleeve with pleats
My daughter wearing the top

  

The fabric is from Atelier Brunette and bought in a shop in The Hague. What's nice about this brand is that they have notions matching their fabric. In this case the buttons!









Monday, November 16, 2020

Hi

 Hi, it’s been a very long time since I posted anything here. Hope you are doing well in this strange year with the pandemic all over the globe. I’m fine, have been sewing but not blogging. I have also started a new adventure and started giving sewing lessons in the small town I live and will soon start at another location too. Exciting and love to do that. It’s great to share the love of sewing in real life too (as long as lockdown does not prevent classes, as at the moment, hopefully we can start again next week). 

I’ve been doing a bit of housekeeping and have removed quite a few of the tutorials I had here because I think they need better photos, better instructions and/or a better layout. 

In fact I’m thinking about what to do with the blog: keeping it or not? Start afresh with a bit of different content (still sewing!)? Start another blog that I can more easily adjust visually? Re-do the tutorials and have an English and a Dutch version? Make them in video format? PDF format? Talk more about the different pattern magazines I use? Make a pattern from a magazine each month from one of them and share the experience?

At the same time I feel there’s already so much information to be found online, what would I add that’s not already there in many variations?  

I invite you to share your thoughts. If you look for a tutorial online, what are you looking for? Can you find it? What would you like to see on this blog? Any other ideas? 

Looking forward to read your input. Even if it’s just a hello it’s great to hear from you.


Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Jacket modeled on me

I have a few catch-up posts to do. Let me start with a post with only a few words. This is the jacket I finished a month ago but didn't yet show wearing it.
I'm very pleased with it and have worn it a few times already. The sewing details are in the previous post.





Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Jacket from Burda February 2020




Though the muslin of the Knip Mode jacket was a huge disappointment I was still in a jacket sewing mood. I spent an evening trying to draft that jacket myself but it was too complicated. I do have some pattern drafting skills, but this was out of my league.
Then February Burda came along with this pattern. Not as complicated but still lovely lines. Add to this my confidence in their consistent pattern drafting and I was on my way tracing this pattern.

I compared the traced pattern to my sloper and added a little bit to the hip area and made it up in the fashion fabric immediately. My fabric was 1.50 meter wide, a little wider than the fabric used in the magazine and I managed to cut this from only 1.55 meter of fabric. You can see that some pieces are rather close to each other, I defnitely did not use 5/8 inch seam allowances! The only change I had to do was cutting the center back facing with a seam instead of on the fold. Minor issue in my opinion.


 
This is the fabric I used, bought at Croft Mill Fabric.


Construction was pretty straightforward. As most of you know I construct my jackets with a bit more internal structure than instructions in general tell you. This jacket has a shoulder shield (see picture), sleeveheads and a thin shoulder pad. The last two I forgot to take a photo of.



This "belt" is a nice detail and waist accent. Found this lining that suited the jacket very well. Any plain lining would have been fine of course.




Partly unzipped. The zipper was taken from a skirt I made a couple of years ago. It was still in mint condition while the fabric of the skirt was turning from black to grey. It even has a bit more of a story, because I bought this Riri zipper when I was in New York and met Nancy K again. Quite a few years ago now, wish I could do it again. Wish I could find this more special zippers locally too but never found a source for them.



Now I'm working on an easy project, here's a sneak peek. A dress from Burda January 2019. I was just too tired to put the sleeves in tonight.



.