Skip to main content

Bra construction

One of the things I'm making at the moment is a Sewy pattern for myself. As I mentioned earlier, I usually make bra's from a pattern that is drafted to my own measurements. But I like exploring and trying, so that's why I bought a few commercial patterns in the past years. Plus, like most women I think, it's nice to have different models.

The Sewy pattern called "Linda" has very different cups. That's why I bought it about two years ago. I made it then as a wearable muslin from brown lycra and lace. But though the fit of the cups was right, the overall feeling was not good. On the underside the elastic flipped to the inside and the side cups in lace were not interfaced, which made it not strong enough for my D cup.
I left it at that but the pattern remained on my mind and I decided to make it again, altering the pattern.

The main change to the pattern for the cup so that the wire chanelling was not flipped towards the cups, but outward (as I'm used to do).
Here are three pictures of three different bra's to illustrate the problem.

The Linda pattern is a full band bra, and in that case you sew the chanelling over the elastic. But not in the description of Sewy (and two years ago I had not enough experience to know beforehand that I had to change it). In the picture of the brown bra you see the way the Linda patterns describes it. The wire is above the elastic

In this picture you can see the "normal" construction for a full band bra, this is the bra I'm working on.

And in this last picture you see the wire chanelling on a partial band bra. You sew the chanelling towards the cups, but that is no problem, because there is no elastic on ther underside of the cups (btw: this is the inside of the blue bra I posted early in May).


  1. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and explain the difference in construction of the various bra types. I think your new bra is fantastic. Keep up the good work!! :-)

  2. I am on my kindle so i didnt get a full impact look at everything..but what i did see was VERY informative and interesting.Being a woman and a sewer ive examined bras alot but u pointed out things i never really thought about.I will b viseting again! ; D I have a bra question..Why r bras now made with that foam rubber padding? I hate that stuff! Its hot it breaks down fast and it is so uncomfortable.and i would swear that it could deflect bullets!Hehe!Thank u for ur time!

  3. Hi Deborah, Think that the main reason is that they usually don't have seams and therefor don't show under T-shirts.
    Glad you like the information on my blog.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).