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Showing posts from January, 2009


The blouse is near finishing. The fabric is difficult to work with due to the large amount of stretch. The picture below gives an indication of that. I've sewn before with cotton with stretch in it, but never as much as this fabric.If you read my blog a bit longer already, you know that I want the stripes to match as much as possible. The only way to make sure they do, is using the walking foot for stitching. Just before I took these pictures, I messed up the topstitching of the band of the collar. Time for a break! First I took the topstitching out, then I left the blouse for the moment and will finish it later this weekend.  The dropping shoulder is not my favorite, that I already know from the first fitting. And I'm not sure if the pocket will stay on and/or will get the accompanying pocket on the right side. The pattern is for two pockets with flap, and I have cut them, but am not so sure whether I like the pockets. Too much going on with this fabric is my feeling. What do…

BWOF february 2009

In 2008 the January BWOF was the issue that had the most patterns that I liked. I did sew a few of them, but as always, never all that I wanted to make. The February 2009 issue is only the second issue this year, but it could well become my favorite issue this year. It's full with patterns that I'd like to make. Below a few favorites, but there are more that I like. I received my issue yesterday and if I would have had the time, I would have traced a few patterns already. But it'll have to wait.A couple of jacketsNo. 113 is for petites, so perhaps I'll have to find out how to "de-petite" the pattern. It's designed for women of 1.60 mtr, and I even have to make the default BWOF patterns a bit longer in the waist, as I'm 6 cm longer than their default length size to which they draft their patterns. A bit complicated.I definitely like the style of no. 115, certainly if you see the picture in linen in the magazine, but for this one I'm unsure whether …

Collar for a shirt

I've started an easy project and a more complicated one. The easy project is a ling erie set. TNT patterns, construction done so many times, piece of cake for me. The more complicated one is only complicated by the fabric. Remember the spring fabric I showed you last week? I want to make an easy shirt from that fabric. First I washed it, and it came out more looking like seersucker fabric. It has stretch and had shrunken quite a bit too! After a good press it was better, but I'm afraid of all the ironing I will have to do after wearing and washing the shirt. I love to wear shirts, but hate the ironing.  OK, and what am I going to make of this one? BWOF 118 from the January issue. I'm not quite sure whether this is the right fabric for this style or not. The style is mixed: hanging shoulders but long cuffs on the sleeves. I'll see how it comes out. (I wanted to copy the line drawing, but the BWOF site is too busy it seems, the pictures don't come up )I sewed the col…

Copying a pair of pants (6 - finished)

The pants are finished. I'm satisfied with the result. I think it does look like the original drawing (except for the omitted open slit and the buttons on the front). I do think this would be a great pattern to make in a denim with a contrasting topstitching. Perhaps I'll do that in spring. I like it enough to make it another time, with perhaps a straighter leg. But now, without further ado, a lot of pictures.And my next project? Certainly something more easy than this. <

What did women wear for small waists?

Alexandra said in a comment on my previous mail that she would want "whatever undergarments they wore to make their hips and waists look like that. (They can keep the bullet bras.)".It reminded me of a link recently shared on a Dutch sewing forum which shows what women did wear. Alexandra, would you want to wear this (as if you would need it)? I definitely don't want to, even if it would make my hips look smaller.

A Vogue from 1956

I know you might be expecting me showing my pants, but it isn't finished yet. Almost there, but a few little things still have to be done. Below a few pictures from a Vogue from 1956 which I found on a local site when I looked for some older BWOF issues. One of the sellers also had this Vogue issue from 1956 for sale and I bought it. I'm not really into vintage style sewing (yet), but I do like to see books and magazines with clothes and patterns of the past. Aren't they wonderful feminine clothes? And it's a bit difficult to see in most of the pictures, but the lines are so special on some of these designs.

Copying a pair of pants (5)

I'll continue showing the steps of constructing these pants. The pockets of the waistband are done. Because the fabric is a bit "beefy", I made the flap not of two layers of fashion fabric, but used black cotton for one side. The welts with the layer of ribbon in between had enough thickness already, so it was important to reduce bulk. I'm hoping to finish these pants this weekend. Then it's time for something in another color. I've a feeling that I've had black thread on my sewing machine for ages now. This morning I was in a fabric shop, which had the first few bolts with spring fabrics. Couldn't resist to buy a lovey cotton for a shirt with shades of light blue and mint green.

Copying a pair of pants (4)

Here are pictures of the closing method for the pants. I made a zipper in the pocket.This is the view when the zipper is closed. Here you can see how it looks when I open the zipper. I laid a yellos paper behind the pocket to make the picture more clear.

I know the zipper is brown and my fabric grey. 
Others won't see the zipper at all , and the pants will be lined. I won't see much of the zipper when it's finished either.The inside. The zipper is over the full length off the pocket. My hip and waist size have a difference of over 2 sizes. Therefor I need a  lot of opening space. I think you could make the opening shorter when the difference is not that big.

Copying a pair of pants (3)

It's very slow sewing here. I haven't touched my sewing machine for days and only tonight found time to make the alterations to my pattern and I am ready to cut the fabric.Helen, I'm grateful for your comment on the Sandra Betzina method. I checked and that method is described in the book Power sewing that I have. And I'm going to do that instead of leaving the pocketseam open. I'll show pictures when I've done this. When trying on the muslin to determine the position of the pockets in the waistband, I saw that the center front line was bent too much to the center at the location where I moved the dart. It's a bit difficult to see in the picture, the line is drawn about 1,5 cm more to the outside at the top and then I made a smooth curve to center front again. You can see the drawing of the pocket and the possible sizes for the tab. The same I did (with the help of DD) on the back. I like the experiment and hope that the result is going to be what I have in…

Copying a pair of pants (2)

Based on the instructions from Kenneth King in his book Cool couture I made a sample of a welt pocket with flap. It really is just another method of making a welt pocket and attaching the flap after the basic construction of the welt. But I can't praise his instructions enough. They're well written, clear and mentioning how it must look like in the different steps, and sometimes what you could do wrong in a step. Some of the chapters in it were published earlier in Threads magazine, but as I only subscribe to Threads since about two years, I don't know whether these were all published before, and I didn't bother to check whether the book has more info on the chapters I've seen before or not. I don't care, I love the book. And he gives the measurements in metric equivalents too, which I find really helpful, as I never really get used to the inches (1/16, 5/8, 7/8, it's sounds so unlogical to me).I started with the instruction for a welt with zipper undernea…

Copying a pair of pants

As I showed in one of my last posts, I was intrigued by a pair of Marfy pants as shown in the last Threads issue. And in the past few days, I took some time to try to get the basic pattern and made a muslin. I took my last BWOF pattern as starting point. These are a basic pair of pants with shaped waistband that I love to wear and fit is not the main issue now. Therefor no pictures on me. After drafting the pattern (see below) this is the result. At center front there's more a corner than a straight line, which is easy to change. As you can see the pocket is not drafted as the original drawing, in which it extends to the center front seam. It would have been too much for my figure.I've been thinking some time on the closure for these pants. First I thought to make an invisible zipper in the side, but that's not really a good option in these pants. Based on something I've seen in Sandra Betzina's book I try to make an opening by not closing the pocket all the way up…