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Last post of 2013

I can’t join the ‘sewing top 5’ meme that’s going around in blogland as I haven’t sewn much more than 5 garments this year (not counting the many muslins!). My blogging was very irregular and commenting on other blogs even more lacking. Somehow it just didn’t work this year. Which may sound as a negative, but it was not a bad year for me personally, after a very difficult 2012 I can say I am looking at life much more positive now and I feel more balanced mentally.  The work/free time balance is not good yet and I do hope to improve that in 2014, with more time for sewing as well, my closet shows a few gaps. I have bought a lot of new patterns and fabric in the past year which are waiting to be tried and sewn. I’d also like to sew a few exercise garments, as I’ve started running. I’m doing this “couch to 5K” program and have reached the 5th week. I was going to the gym regularly, but never was into running. I must say it’s quite a different way to start your day. I do like it! Mellissa…

Intrigueing pattern design video’s

Not claiming to have found this, I just saw a link to these video’s on Pattern Review and thought it worthwhile to share:http://www.youtube.com/user/trpattern?feature=watchLots of techniques for (special) pattern drafting. Some look similar to Pattern Magic patterns I have seen. I won’t be making anything like this soon, but think I can learn quite a bit watching a couple of these video’s.

Jacket muslin no 3

Let’s just say I’m getting somewhere. Not perfect yet but better? To compare the photos of my first muslin (not completely fair comparison without sleeves) with the last one. Nancy was right in her comment that shoulderpads would help too, I couldn’t find any, they’re hiding and I will find them probably the moment I bought new ones. I’m sure I have them somewhere.
This last muslin is not the January Burda jacket but a pattern form the September 2004 issue. It has the same collar style as the KwikSew one. I did not cut it yet as I was hoping that this might end up in a wearable jacket and wanted to save the fabric.
I did the same as in the previous muslin: size 36 in the back, 42 in the front with an added fba. After trying it on with one sleeve attached I noticed the sleeve was too narrow to my liking and for the next one I gave some extra width. Felt much better. On the left sleeve I took an extra centimeter of the shoulder width, not very visible in the photo.
On the sides and bac…

Another testgarment, wearable

Working on the muslins is good as it will hopefully result in one or more patterns that I can make to well fitting jackets.This week I was game for sewing something that I could actually wear. Not another jacket muslin. When I sewed the MakeBra DL01 last October (bra with foam cups covered with lace) I wondered whether the pattern would work too without the foam but with non-stretch lace. As I made sure the foam did not stretch any more, it was logical  that this might be a good possibility. Foam doesn’t take that much space in the cup. So here’s my wearable testgarment from a remnant piece of lace and firm lycra that was a gift from my sewing friend Hilde (thank you again!). BTW, there is a lovely bra from this pattern on the MakeBra site now in white: here.The lace I used was not symmetrical and I tried matching the center piece of the flowers. What I did not see until after construction of the cups is that I should have matched the scallops of the lace better. Now the left side has…

Muslins - continued

First I”d like to thank those who commented on my previous posts for all their thoughts on the fitting of my jacket, suggestions and willingness to look things up for me. It’s so nice of you. I do have a few fitting books and will consider buying the Craftsy course mentioned, but will first finish watching the two classes I have on fitting for the bust and back area. Carmen, I definitely would like to do the experiment and after Christmas suits me fine, it’s quite busy with me as well now. For the next muslin I looked for a Burda pattern with a high neckline, as I thought that would give me a better idea of the fit in the neck/shoulder area. It’s from an old issue, December 2006, no 116. I did not sew the sleeve cuffs or waist band, which makes both the sleeves and body a bit short. That’s not important for the issue I’m working on though. The real issue: what sizes did I use and what other changes did I make. My measurements are all over the size chart of Burda, no consistency there.…

Food for thought

My experience with the two jacket muslins and the reactions in the comments have given me some food for thought on what I want to make and on the sizing issue. Carmen gave some in depth reaction about the fit in the back. She gave constructive criticism in a kind way, which I highly appreciated. Thank you Carmen.
About the style: I like the general style of the KwikSew pattern better, but agree fully that it is too boxy for me. A more fitted style will be better. The lines in the back of the second muslin are better, because they can be changed more easily than the KwikSew pattern, which only has a center back seam. Also I think that the classic motorcycle collar is to be preferred, though I like the collar in the second muslin too. Not for the fabric I plan to use though.
It will mean some mix and match.

And I’ve spent a lot of thoughts on the fit. Carmen said that if there was a problem with fit in my garments, usually the back is too large. I do remember having had a similar comme…

Can’t decide

I find it very difficult to decide what pattern to use. The Kwik Sew jacket is very boxy and the size I used definitely is too large in some areas. Linda a special thanks for your comment on their sizing and your experience with KS patterns. Therefor I decided to try another pattern, this time a Knip Mode pattern from the January 2013 issue. With its princess seams both in the front and the back this pattern is easier to change than the KS pattern. The fit in the back is better than the first one, the style less boxy which is good for me. But a pattern fitting right away…. no, of course not ;)On the front a bit more ease is needed at bust height. The back might be ok in the firmer fabric that I plan to use, just a little extra at the hem line. The center front pattern pieced were cut without hem allowances. I prefer the longer length of the side and back part, so will have to add length to the pattern pieces. As you can see clearly the sleeves need improvement. I can’t lift my arm pro…

Inspiration Monday

I used to have a slideshow in my sidebar with photos from rtw that I found inspirational. In one of the blog layout changes that was lost and I never set it up again. Thought it might be nice to occassionally share a “find”  with you. It’s not intended as a “to do” list for me, it’s inspiration and more like a virtual bulletin/moodboard.
Here’s a coat from Mural that I saw on Nordstrom’s website.I recently saw a coat like this in a shop and remember having seen one on a blog quite a while ago, only no idea where. Thanks to Lin3arossa I now know where: Tany!
I like the angle of the zipper on this variation.
Van Inspiratie GeneralVan Inspiratie General



Jackets

Excuse the face,not the most favorable photo, but the best one of the jacket. Also the photo’s of ponte  material show every little thing. which makes me (again) not so happy about the result in the photo, while the real life jacket is quite nice.  I don’t like the combination with the skirt as it accentuates my waist/hip difference too much. I will probably wear it more with a pair of jeans or trousers.On the inside I used Liberty bias tape that I bought in Paris last year. I never finished a jacket in this way before. It’s a nice detail.In the meantime I started working on a muslin for a motorcycle jacket for which I plan to use this fabric I bought in New York recently.When browsing the internet for inspiration on motorcycle jackets I found this one (throughs Shams Pinterest board). Only saw it after I bought the fabric, and it confirms my idea that it’s an interesting combination this fabric and a motorcycle style.I started with a size Medium for the KwikSew pattern, which is too …

This pattern has 200 reviews

Simplicity 4076 needs no introduction. As stated in the title the pattern has 200 reviews on Pattern Review, so I certainly won’t add one. There is nothing more to be said. I’ve had the pattern in my pattern stash for a long time and have made it for the first time. I narrowed the sleeve hem, as the pattern has wide sleeves. A quick project that only took me a (short) evening.The fabric is not bought by me. I got it this weekend in an ‘ugly fabric swap’. This is the third time a group of European ladies came together to sew. Most of us first met in Brussels a few years ago in a PR weekend, some of us prior to that in Paris and some came through the group a bit later, but it feels like we’ve all know each other for a long time now. It’s such fun!
When we meet we usually have this ugly fabric swap and sometimes it’s really ugly and you will not use the fabric for something other then muslin. This time I thought the fabric I ended up with was not too bad at all. I would probably not have…

A second time

I don’t often make patterns with special details twice for the obvious reason that when it’s that special, one item is enough in the closet. I’m making an exception for this jacket that I made this summer. I like the style very much and have worn it regularly. Recently I bought a deep purple ponte with the intention to make a jacket, but I didn’t exactly know which pattern I wanted to use. I came around this pattern and thought that as I had invested so much time in making the pattern and liking the result so much, it was worth another one in a winter color. So that’s what I started with. I’ll share a few photos of the process.The back has a ‘back stay’ from silk organza. As all seams are shaped it wasn’t easy to make a stay in one piece and instead of making a stay with seams I used the silk organza as extra layer in the back pieces. Perhaps not the right way to do it, hope it works.All front pieces are interfaced. I don’t interface the seam allowances for two reasons: reducing bulk …

Cups with padding and lace

In the past months I’ve done a few workshops at Kantje Boord, working with cups with padding. My initial thought was that I didn’t want a padded bra, thinking a bra like this would make me look even more full. I do have enough fullness of my own ;) I found out though, that the preformed or cups with padding didn’t necessarily make me look more busty, they provided good support and nice shaping without adding to the fullness. A new area of bra making to be explored…
Below the description of how I constructed the cups for my last bra. I have gone up one size in this pattern. Instead of 75DD I now made a 75F. I had to take away a bit under the arm (bottom right of picture below), which in my case was just comparing with bra’s that I like and have sewn before.
Because I wanted to use the scallop of the lace, I had to straighten the cup pattern pieces. In the picture you can see the (pink) lines I used.


The bra strap is too long for my liking, I changed it like this and added a seam allowa…