Burda top, FBA

The Burda top I'm making (03-2007-103) was designed for a B-cup. On Pattern Review I read that it needed alteration if you had a larger cup, which did not surprise me. I have a D-cup, so I changed the pattern. As pictures say more than words, and I like to share this information with you, here is what I did. For the pivot and slide method I used the book Fitting Finess from Nancy Zieman, which I find a very helpful book.

1. Add length to the upper part of the pattern, making a 90 degree line to the straight of grain line, cut the pattern and add the extra length (I used 4cm).
The amount needed I measured by comparing the pattern piece to my actual length from shoulder to under my breast.
Don't forget to make this change to the back pattern part and the front band.

This lengthening of the pattern is needed to make sure that the band goes below the breast, and not ends up on your breast.



2. Mark the amount to widen the top in the front, in my case I thought 2 cm would be enough (which of course makes a total of 4 cm extra width in the end).

3. Pivot from top to the marked point. Draw a new line from pivot point to marked point.





















4. The marked point to widen the top is used as second pivot point. Pivot the pattern to the seam line. Mark the line.

The pattern is now changed, armhole and sideseam have not changed, but extra width is added.

Burda top

The advantage of preparing 3 garments to be sewn at a time, is that when you get to sewing, it really goes fast (most of the time). I find that a lot of time is in tracing the pattern, making adjustments, cutting and marking. And I did all those things for 3 patterns last weekend and Monday night.
(This does not work for me with jackets or coats btw, those are time consuming projects also in the sewing stage).

After the dress, the top is now almost finished. Black was on my sewing machine and serger, so I continued with the top, as this is also sewn with black.

This is not a pattern I would normally take for myself, but I find that with all the projects I see on Pattern Review and other blogs, that I become a little more experimental.

And with success, I tried it and my daughter immediately was very enthousiast: "you must wear this tomorrow". (having a birthday party to go to). And my husband likes it too. But unfortunately I can't finish it tonight, as I the shop I went to for notions did not have a black or invisible zipper that was long enough. The black band is cotton batist, no stretch: a zipper is needed.
I like it too, and want to finish it soon.

This time I sewed all seams on my sewing machine first, as I want to make the band match exactly in the side seams, which with serging sometimes is a bit difficult. Also used my walking foot on this combination of stretch knit and cotton batist.

AND: my 14 year old Bernina serger is giving problems again!. Arghh. It had a rather expensive repair this winter, so I think I must go back with it this week. And I hate to miss it.