Saturday, December 19, 2020

Jeans - sewing a curved seam

I made some good progress on my jeans. The back pieces are finished and the front pockets done. 


The pocket has a strong curve. In most of my garments I work with the seam lines and I mark those so stitching is basically stitching over the seam lines. 

Not with this pattern, which has 5/8" seam allowances (1.5 cm) included. When sewing with default seam allowances it's important that you watch where the fabric on the plate is (where the measurements are), not the front of the foot. 
In the photo below you can see that at the position of the needle, the measurement is 5/8"to the edge of the fabric. But at the front of the foot it's more. So while sewing, you watch the position of the fabric at the point where the green arrow at the right points to.
The foot I was using here has a very convenient mark for the needle position, but it works exactly the same when your foot doesn't have it, the you'll keep an eye on the position that's in line with the needle.


After stitching it's trimming and clipping.

Don't clip to the stitch line! Stay away 2-3 mm from it. If you clip to the stitch line, you might get sharp corners in your curve. 

Press the pocket facing to the inside.

Topstitch and ready to continue!

Wednesday, December 16, 2020

Sewing jeans

 This past weekend I started with a new pair of jeans. I’m using the Ginger pattern in the high waist version. I see that I’ve never blogged about it. My current black pair is about two years old, not so black any more and it definitely has seen better days. Time to replace it, as I love wearing it. 

A project to do in a few steps. Today I topstitched the back pockets and have sewn them on. 

Though to be completely honest, I have topstitched a pair earlier on, but decided I didn’t  want the colour after all.

The green was my first choice, but I will do it on another pair. I realised I want to sew a cardigan to go with this which has a lot of blue in the fabric which is not a great combination with this green.

One line for the topstitching was marked using carbon tracing paper. The other lines were sewn at equal distance from this first line.

For some reason the light is very different on this last photo. Finished apart from the rivets in the corners. I’ll put those on before sewing the yoke, which will be the next step.