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Showing posts from July, 2012

Tracing paper

A quick in between post on tracing/wax/carbon paper. Karin said she found it difficult to find wax paper and asked what I used for it.
I use Burda copying paper and am not aware of any other brand available. I can buy it in a notions store. It’s available in a package with white and yellow and a package with blue and red marking paper. The sheets are large (82x57 cm), not as large as the one Susan Khalje uses in her class probably, but I usually only have to reposition for very long or wide pattern pieces (think trousers, wide skirt panels). A set of paper lasts for a very long time. Last year I bought a new set with the red sheet, the one I used till then had lasted a couple of years. In the end it was torn by folding and using a lot, but I still have that piece too, held together by tape on the back, as it doesn’t give too thick wax dots any more, and in some cases (thinner fabric) I still prefer to use the old sheet!
I use it for “real” fabric as well, not only for muslins, depen…

Starting the dress

The pattern that came with the course is Vogue 8648. It was possible to use another pattern, but this is quite nice with a lot of lines that make it possible to adjust for fit. I think I’m going to make the short sleeve version, though could decide to make it sleeveless. It will depend on the muslin.

Choosing the size was a nightmare of course: my bust is size 16, but I know I have a narrow back with a full bust. My waist is a size 12-14, and hipsize is a 18-20 (do I want to tell this?). In the end I decided to trace the 16 for the top based on the finished measurements indicated on the pattern. The muslin can be adapted later for the more narrow back I hope. If not a second muslin must be made. I usually trace my patterns, and this one is no exception. It makes it easier too if I have to go back to another size.
The skirt pieces I tapered down to a size 18. There are extra wide seam allowances, so if necessary I have space to play with. The finished measurements do indicate that it …

Couture dress

A few weeks ago I registered for the online course “The Couture Dress” by Susan Khalje. It was highly recommended by me by Joana, one of the ladies from the “Brussels group” last year and with whom I spent the most enjoyable bra sewing Saturday 2 weeks ago. The course includes Vogue pattern 8648, which makes it extra worthwhile, but even without the pattern the course is worth every cent you pay for it (personal opinion!).Until yesterday I have only been watching the lessons and didn’t do any work on it myself. I now can not recommend this class enough, it’s the next best thing to having a personal lesson from Susan Khalje. The video’s are clear, Susan is a very experienced teacher (apart from being a master of sewing of course) and explains very clearly what she's doing, how and why. The video's are long, she takes her time, no rushing through steps. Couture isn’t about rushing either!I haven’t finished watching all the lessons, I have a few more to go. This is not a beginner…

Pattern found

A few posts ago I told you about the missing Sorbetto pattern. Well, I found it not long after I posted (of course). I had come across it while searching for it, there was a pattern with a bit of blue lace attached. “Ah, the lace cardigan” I thought. I had completely forgotten that I made the lace Sorbetto top and that this was actually the pattern for it. Browsing through the pictures on a memory card to see what I could remove I saw the picture of the top and only then the lightbulb flashed on in my head. The pattern was right in front of me.There’s nothing special to say about this top. It’s my 4th Sorbetto and there are a lot of them in blogosphere and reviewed on PR. For me it’s a versatile top, it goes with my grey or white jeans, with a pair of black linen trousers or skirt, white cardigan, black jacket etc. It’s a bit loose below the bust point, that’s fine for me, it won’t be clinging to me in the hot weather we have here finally. Time to enjoy a bit of sunshine.

Cowl neck top

A pattern I’m very, very happy with. I copied this pattern a few weeks ago from my friend Valerie. It’s a pattern from an English (?) magazine from about 10 years ago if I remember it right. Can’t remember the name of the magazine and it’s not that important too, as it’s not available any more. I just traced Valeries pattern.
I prefer this cowl to the one of the Patrones top I made recently because this one is a little higher, which  makes it work-appropriate.
The pattern has a facing that extends to the armhole, so that the whole front armhole needs no separate finishing. I was on my own for the order of construction and the second time I did it a bit different than the first time. As I think I will use this pattern more often I write the steps here for my own reference, but you could use the same technique on another cowl neck pattern with a facing like this or a facing added like this.

The finished pictures are not so good, the left version was taken from the laundry bin to get a…

Wow, Burda August

Fall is here is the main title on the cover! It’s fall here for months already, summer never really arrived, rain and grey, cold days is all we had. But that’s beyond the point. If you’ve been reading my blog for some time you know I have been very disappointed in BurdaStyle in the past two years, I stopped moaning about the magazine, but mostly also stopped buying it with one or two exception because I liked 1 pattern in the magazine. This morning in the supermarket I saw the new August Burda and it was for the first time in years that the cover spoke “buy me”. I made sure the top was in the issue as a pattern (having bought magazines in the past based on the cover picture only to find out later that the item that piqued my interest was a rtw item).This is an issue to like (of course, personal opinion). Fitted and/or shaped garments are back! I love quite a few patterns. The peplum top is certainly on the to do list now. Line drawings of a few favorites (there are more to likeScreens…

Skirt - finished pictures

Took some time but here are the pictures of the finished black and white skirt. I used a Vogue pattern (8781)for the pencil skirt. It has a high waist, any pattern like this would be suitable for the skirt I made, and it would be good in a pencil skirt with waistband too.

The technique for the blocks of fabric was published in this video by Trudy from HotPatterns. As I mentioned in my earlier post on this skirt, I was on my own (with help from Valerie and Sheila) deciding the measurements of the strips of white and black fabric to use, as I didn’t use her pattern. The blocks are larger in the end than the one Trudy shows, but that’s not important, I like the skirt. Deceptively skinny (the name of the Hot Patterns pattern)? Well, I’m not the one to judge. A lifelong awareness of 2-3 sizes difference between hip and waist measurement makes that you only see the wide part .
As to the red block I digitally entered in the previous post, it was too late to add such a block, I should have do…

Burda archive

I missed the Burda archives since they changed the sites to Burdastyle.
Accidentally I found the archives still exist on the French site and contain the archives from mid 2007 till today! Here's the link.
For as long as it's valid.

Does this happen to you?

The title is referring to not being able to find a pattern. I bought a little piece of fabric I want to make the sorbetto top of. I’ve made the pattern twice before, have tweaked the fit to my liking and now I can NOT find the pattern, nowhere. Seems to have disappeared. Has this happened to you? Frustrating. I know I made a size 10, but have to reprint and tape the sheets together again, which I don’t like. Worst is that I did some change to get rid of armhole gaping. Well, I thought I would whip it up tonight, but will not happen. I got quite a bit done this week, the skirt has only some handstitching left (why does it always takes longer when I reach that point to finish a garment?). Pictures on me to follow later this week. Without red block, it was too late to get that into the pattern. I would have had to make it all over again. I like it enough just in the black and white. And yesterday I made a cowl neck top that I’m actually wearing today already. I’ll show you that one also …

Inspired by Valerie

When I was with my sewing friend Valerie two weeks ago (that long already?) she asked whether I had seen the video in which Trudy from Hotpatterns showed a black and white skirt. Valerie thought it was something I would like. I hadn’t seen the video, and she was right: when I had seen it I immediately knew that I wanted to make the skirt. Indeed I even bought some black linen a day later (having white already). To be very honest I didn’t buy the pattern. It’s the Deco Vibe Deceptively Skinny Patchwork Skirt, the link to the video is from that page as well. Trudy shows how to make the front panel, and it being a pencil skirt, I took the pattern that I used for the Dries van Nooten knock off earlier this year: a high waist pencil skirt. I started with drawing the idea on a piece of paper before cutting into fabric.Then I made a first sample. Not having the pattern I was of course on my own to decide on measurements. The first one was a bit too narrow in the black we thought. So I made a…