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Showing posts from February, 2012

A sewing weekend

I’ve spent this weekend together with my friends Valerie and Sheila from Brussels. A great sewing weekend with of course a lot of chatting about sewing as well. I only just returned this evening. I took a few things without knowing exactly what I fancied to do. And I took a piece of fabric to ask Valerie and Sheila advice on a pattern. I bought this fabric in January 2008 and published it on my blog. The colors are more subtle in real life. Never got round to sewing it then and so it remained in my closet for a long time.

On Saturday morning I went to the supermarket to buy some food and found the new March (!) Burda.  In it exactly a pattern I liked for the fabric.

ETA info to answer Debbie's comment: it's in the European sizes 34-42. I'm making the 42 with only a small adjustment in the length. And if you're buying the issue for this pattern be aware that it is a more fitted jacket, the sleeves are narrow. I'll add this to the review I'll do, but not ready for…

Merckwaerdigh – BHS10 – Construction, part 4

The final part of the posts showing how I made the BHS10 pattern.
A small length of the shoulderstrap is attached tothe inner part of the band. I sew with the full length of the strap and cut off after stitching. This is much easier than trying to stitch with only a small part of the strap left to sew.

Stitch the rest of the shoulderstrap in the middle of the slider.

Pull the strap from back to front through the ring at the back, go through the slider as shown in the picture below.

Sew the other end to the top of the side cup. I’ve attached a ring at this end too, forgot to take a picture of that separately.

This is the front, detail of the cup and shoulderstrap.

Technically the bra is finished now. What remains is the little detail of the bow.
And I couldn’t help myself, I unpicked the hook/eye closure and sewed it again with matching thread. How obsessive is that?

Inside of the finished bra

Outside of the finished bra. The light was not very good when I took these pictures.

Thank …

Merckwaerdigh – BHS1- Construction, part 3

A very picture-heavy post. Difficult to break it in two posts in a logical way, so I’ll make it one long post. First the cups are stitched in the band. I’ve used 1cm seam allowances. Be careful at the top of the bridt to match the cups at center of the bridge. I usually try to have the lowest point of the scallop of the upper cup to be at the top of the bridge.The next step is to sew in the first step of the wire channelling. After this step the elastic is attached first.As you can see in the picture the wire chanelling is sewn at the very edge, with a normal length straight stitch. It’s pinned on the side of cup. It will be folded down to the band.Important: leave about 2 cm unstitched at the side of the cup. This is needed to sew the elastic in.A picture where you can see clearly on which side the wire channel is attached.Measure the length of elastic needed. I always use 20% less than the length of the pattern piece. Check the width of your hook and eye closure. the picot edge of t…

Merckwaerdigh – BHS10 – Construction part 2

After constructing the band as in previous post, the next thing to do is making the cups. The cup-pattern consist of 3 parts. I’ve made 2-part cups in the past with good results, but the bra’s with 3 part cups have my preference. This one is different from the Rebecca Sewy bra that I’ve often made.

The parts cut in lace. This time I will not interface the lace. It’s stable enough to use on its own. This really depends on the amount of stretch the lace has. For me most stretch lace is not strong/stable enough for the cups.
If you look closely you can see that my pattern piece on the right is not as long as the paper pattern. I’m a bit short on lace and wanted to keep a bit for a panty, so I’ll make the lace part of the strap shorter.

With this pattern, carefully mark the notches, I made mistakes there in my red version. Cut the parts on the scallop with the lowest part of the scallop at the actual stitching line for the side cup and at the edge of the upper cup.
At the top of the upper…

Merckwaerdigh – BHS10 – Construction, part 1

A post I haven’t done for a long time: showing how I make a bra. In this case, the pattern I’m using is the Merckwaerdigh BHS 10. It’s the one completely made of lace, as shown in the drawing at the bottom right. Another vairiation I made you can see in this post, there I combined lace and lycra. This time I want to make the all-lace variation.

Let me say that this is my interpretation of construction, I didn’t even look at the instructions provided with the pattern, just using my experience. I have no affiliation with the company, just like a few of their patterns.
This lace variation calls for a stretch lace, as the band will need stretch. I often use non-stretch lace for the cups and most stretch laces are not firm enough for me without an extra interfacing in the cups (obviously depending on your cup size). There are a few tule laces available though, that have some stretch and are firm enough for the cups to use without interfacing.
Only then: I like a bit firmness in the band, s…