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Showing posts from March, 2009

Deadlines met

No sewing deadlines, I do have three projects with deadlines this week for work. That's why I've been sewing so little the last two weeks, and in general are not commenting or reading reviews. The deadline for the first was met tonight, and I feel relieved, as the other two are almost finished too, and probably won't require working in the evenings too. TIme to sew again!I received a few patterns yesterday. I don't know when I get to  make them, but let me share these: Vogue 1066 and 1087. The suit on the left I bought because of the pants pattern. I wondered about this pattern when it was released, as I liked the pants very much, but had my doubts about the jacket for me. Still doubting, but when I saw Tany's version of the pants, the pattern was high on my list. The dress will be an experiment, I like the style, and the only way to know how it will be on my is to try it. Ann just published her negative review of this dress, but I'll have to give it a try. The…

Sew along

Wow, there are 30 ladies now who wanting to join the sew along. For Jos, who asked what I would like to do in the sew along: a sew along is not a class, but a couple of ladies (usually) working on the same pattern or type of patterns. Joining the sew along does not mean that we all make the same, but that we all are sewing lingerie, and share the process, difficulties that we encounter in construction or fit (or possibly translation of instructions), and very important to me: help each other by sharing our knowledge. To set it up in a private blog gives everyone the opportunity to write posts and add picturres in that blog and give access only to the participants.In this particular sew along I'll be the "administrator" of the blog and will try to help participants where I can, that's one of the reasons that I think a limited number of participants is good. Some of the participants will be fairly new to this type of sewing, others with more experience, will be able to…

Sew along

How nice to see so much interest in a lingerie sew along. Like I said, I'm thinking of May/June. As my blog is on blogger, that's what I thought of as platform for the sew-along. But it could be Wordpress too. Any preferences? Those of you who use/used both, what are the differences? Is Wordpress easier to work with? I set up a testblog there some time ago, but didn't have enough time to explore the possibilities fully.
ETA: I'd like to restrict the number of particpants to 30. That means that all of you who have showed an interest till now can join the sew along when it starts, and there are a few places left.
It's not a class, but somehow it feels better that the number of participants is not too large.
If you're interested in sources for fabric and notions, please read the comments on my previous post, some interesting links there, and a free bra pattern mentioned, for which this is the link: Burdastyle. I never downloaded a pattern, as I don't like the pri…

New fabrics

My new lycra fabrics and lace that I bought at Kantje boord last week. The grey on the right has silver threads through it whith a little shine, the lace is perfect with it, though the picture does not reflect that.And this is the bra I'm making, still not completely finished. I gave my garden priority this weekend. And there were some other priorities too.Not my usual fabric/lace combination, but I've seen something like that (really don't remember where and when) and just wanted to try. The plaid is lycra!Kat was very kind in her comments, suggesting that I should give a class. Well, that's not exactly on my mind, as I'm not a sewing teacher, and more important, I'm not a fit-expert. But it brought back an idea that I have since quite a while: how about a lingerie sew-along, for example in May/June? What I'm thinking of is the kind of sew along that Marji organized last year for a coat. In a separate blog, only to be viewed by participants? Making a panty…

On lingerie fabric and notions

Regularly I'm asked where I buy my fabrics and notions for lingerie sewing.I'll repeat the information that I wrote before. Kantje-Boord in Amsterdam. Their site has recently been changed, and partly still under construction. Their pictures take a long time to show, which makes navigating a bit difficult. The site is in Dutch only. As I don't live too far away, I go there myself and find combinations of lace/lycra and notions that I like. I went today and bought some great stuff. If you want to order from outside the Netherlands, best write an e-mail I think. They sell packages with lycra, lace and all notions (except underwires) you need for 1 bra and two panties. It's a small shop, but I've never seen so much lingerie fabrics and notions in one place. Further I regularly buy at a local store in my hometown, from the lady who owns it I learned the basics of sewing lingerie. Beautiful stuff, but expensive. And no online shopping.Real online stores:Elingeria: a Germ…

Addiction?

When you see the pictures below, you know I am.  For the bra I was inspired by a webalbum of another Dutch lady sewing lingerie. I can't link here, because she published the link to her album in a forum that is not open for everyone, but it's beautiful. When I saw how she had used the lace, I decided to try a bit different way of cutting the pieces. The scallop side of the lace is pointing down, instead of forming the top of the upper cup.The panty is a pattern that I didn't use for quite a while, just forgot about this one I guess, because it's really a nice pattern, self drafted after instructions in a workshop. It can be sewn very quickly, I took me only an hour for the construction. Just what I needed. I had a lot of sewing plans, including a mini wardrobe, but work is coming in between. Not complaining, just a fact. And this is the reason too I'm not commenting or reading reviews a lot at the moment, just too busy (I have over 80 unread items in my blog reader…

A white blouse

These were the only reasonable pictures from the series DH made.  But you'll get the idea. There seems to be a little extra space in the right collar, which I didn't see in the mirror. Perhaps a few handstitches to take out and do again. For the rest it's OK, though I think that next time I'll start with 38 for the back, it still has a bit too much space?The skirt is a Knip mode pattern that I made a year ago. I did not make pictures for the construction of the rest of the collar. Next time. This time I was just busy finishing the blouse and the white is difficult to make pictures of anyway.Basically I follow the method that is described by Claire B. Shaeffer in her book "High fashion sewing secrets". For the upper collar I sewed the upper and under collar (cut on the bias) together till the point where it meets the lower part of the collar. Then the under collar is sewn to the front and back, the upper collar to the facing. A little handstitches to keep the …

A little progress

Not going as fast as I had hoped, but making progress. As you can see in the picture on the left the collar is constructed different from a usual notched collar (not pressed yet). In most notched collars there is no seamline from the center front and the facing is a separate pattern piece.This is not the case in this pattern. The facing is cut with the front pattern part, and the lower part of the notched collar is a separate pattern piece. BWOF instructions are different from the way I constructed this, as I wanted to make the notched collar in the same way as I did in the red jacket. The 2,5 dot that is given as level of difficulty is a bit optimistic.This is what I did:Stitched exactly from bottom corner to point wherer upper collar will be attached (this point is marked on the pattern)Clip the foldline of the front facing to the seamline.
In the picture you can see the markings of the tracing paper I used to mark the fabric.Pin the lower part of the collar to the front an…

Sleeve plackets done

I'm going to make blouse #104 from the BWOF February issue. After a week of many working hours I felt like making the t-shirt of the last post first, as an instant gratification project. Now it's time for the blouse.  I long debated with myself whether or not to make the "blind flap" as it is described, which is also in the back with a pleat, and in the end decided to make it as designed with flap. And of course I "had to" do something different then the instructions tell you.Tonight I made the plackets and cuffs of the sleeves (strange working order, I know). I used the drawing from David P. Coffin's book for the placket, but used the instructions from Mary Beth, which are very helpful. I do like Coffin's book for all the information that's in it, but find his instructions and drawings difficult to follow. Some of you shared my views on the low neckline of the BWOF patterns. And Kat, you made me laugh with your comment, I must make an appointme…

02-2009-108

I don't know what to think of this print on me, but it will certainly be ok with a black cardigan. I was in the mood for something simple this afternoon, and thought I might as well make this top, of which the neckline is the appealing part. But, as you can see, it's the problem right away, as it slides a bit to my left in the picture. Reading the reviews I saw that the neckline gave problems, and the sleeves are set-in sleeves, with a higher cap. I changed the top of the sleeve and the armholes using the Jalie 2449 pattern, which is perfect for me. For the neckline I made a facing like this:In this way there is no extra bulk at the shoulder seams, as the seam of the facing is on center back. I understitched the facing.  There is no stretch left this way, but with the width of the neckline, that's no big deal.

Sisterhood award

Lori (Girls in the garden) gave me this award. She said this about the award: "I feel it is so appropriate for blogland, many other sewers and crafters with blogs and are always so willing to help."And I can only agree, I love the name of this award.
The rules of this award are:
1. Put the logo on your blog or post
2. Nominate at least 10 blogs which show great Attitude and/or Gratitude!The difficult part: how to choose from a list of more than 140 blogfeeds? But this time I won't break the rules like I did last time, and share a couple of favorites and inspiring blogs. Some of them will have been mentioned, I'm not taking time to check. Tany - Couture et tricot, always the most inspiring high end garments, and sharing with us with so many pictures also of the details of construction. Melissa - Fehr trade, going through a difficult time, but cheerful blog posts and a lot of great garments. Lindsay T sews, sewing the most gorgeous jackets and coats lately, that…

My hair is too short (or how to hide a too low neckline)

My next project (part of a mini wardrobe, more on that later, still planning) is a white blouse, no. 104 of the February BWOF issue. I have traced the pattern two weeks ago, did a FBA. But I had not checked the depth of the neckline. Before cutting the fabric, and based on my experience with the jacket I did check. Guess what: it's too low. I could have known, based on the pictures in the magazine. Now I checked, and see what they did to the pictures. The red dot on the white version marks the top button, which is not so clear in the screenshot. The collar is folded higher than the roll line, which in this pattern is actually a seam. I don't often wear a scarf in that way, but it would help to cover up.In pattern 103, which is basically the same pattern, the models hair covers the neckline! Conclusion: my hair is too short!Though I love BWOF very, very much, I would like it if they made their necklines a tiny bit higher. If even their photographer needs to cover up, we (= the …

Bagging a lining, where the front facing meets the lining

For the jacket I used the "bagging the lining" technique I used before. This time I changed the way of working in the corner where the front facing meets the lining. I used the book Jackets for real people for this, but have seen it described somewhere else too. Because I wanted to do it once again to remember the steps I did it again tonight and made pictures to share it with you. It's not the full description of bagging a lining, just this corner, illustrated with pictures and in my own words.Step 1: Mark the corner where front and facing meet. In my example it's easy to see on the facing part, as I in general don't interface the seam allowances. the hem allowance is 5 cm (2 inch). As this is only a sample, the "front" is not completely marked for seam lines.Sew the front facing  to the front exactly till the marked point.Step 2: The lining is exactly the length of the jacket, no hem allowance needed with the 5 cm hem allowance at the front. Sew the l…