Before explaining how I make a panty (or perhaps later on a bra), let me say that I learned these techniques from 3 different teachers in courses or workshops and from information from books and the internet. So I'm not a professional sewing teacher, and not saying that my description is the only right way to do it. There can be better ways perhaps, this is only how I do it.
For panties you need the following:
- lycra
- lace (optional)
- small piece of cotton (for crotch lining)
- edge elastic
- narrow lingerie elastic (only when you use scalloped edge of lace on the side of your leg)
Cutting lace is always taking some time, because I want my bra's and panties to by symmetrical. Usually I cut all pieces for 1 bra and 2 panties at the same time to make sure I'm not falling short of fabric. All my pattern pieces have 1 cm seam allowance and seamlines clearly marked, certainly for the parts that must be cut from lace.
Step 1:Lay the paper pattern piece on the lace. In this case the edge of the lace will be on the leg side, so it gets no seam allowance. I use the lowest part of the scallop as guideline.
In the picture, the corner with the red arrow will be the point where the lace will join the back part. I like it to be a low point of the scallop, so match the seamline exactly there.
Step 2Remove the paper, and use the first part of your lace as guide for cutting the second part. Make sure you lay wrong sides together.
This is a detail of the 2 layers. The embroidery of the lace matches. The extra print on the fabric has no symmetry.
An example of the 2 layer, exactly matched.
Example of all pieces for the panty, except crotch lining.
Hi Sigrid,
ReplyDeleteYour panties and bras are stunningly beautiful, as much as any fine lingerie. Thanks for sharing them and I wish I could find lace as beautiful as that you've used.
Kitren