Skip to main content

Burda pants

As I thought, the welts of this pants took as much time as the rest of the construction. It took me 1 1/2 hour. The result is this, with the welts still held together with a zigzag stitch:
For the construction I mainly used the method described by Ann Steeves (Gorgeous Things) in a Threads article last year. I think you can find it on her blog as well (but you have to search, I can't find it right now).

As for the pants itself, here are some pictures of how it is without waistband still. Lining has to be added too.

The front and waist are OK, only the back has folds, I hope they disappear when I add the waistband and pull up the center back a few millimeters.

Anyone any idea how to get those folds away?

Comments

  1. I wish I knew. Until I started taking photos of my back for my blog, I didn't realize I was getting those wrinkles too.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I found the cause of those wrinkles to be full high hip as per Betzina's Fast Fit. She has you slash and spread the pattern pieces to add needed length to go over the hips. I had a pattern that had pockets also, so I chose to do the slash just below the pocket over to just below the zipper. Try undoing your zip a little so that you can pull them down on one side and see if they go away. I added 1 1/2" and my wrinkles were gone!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…