Skip to main content

Making a bra - 3

Edited to add: I've made a pdf file for these instructions. You can find it here.

The next part of my tutorial of making a bra. Meanwhile I'm thinking of my next garment to make, other then lingerie. Difficult choice, but I would like something with a bit of a challenge. On the other hand, I need some capris or shorts for the summer. Well, that's for next week.

Making the cups of the bra.

Sew narrow elastic with a zigzag stitch to the scalopped edge of the lace. The elastic should be approximately 10% shorter then the seam. This also applies when you use non-stretch elastic. This narrow elastic will make sure that the cup lies to your breast properly.
Of course there is a difference in using stretch or non-stretch lace. If your lace has a lot of stretch, it will more easily take shape. I find it a matter of personal preference but have used both kind of lace. I tend to add 0,5 cm to the length of the upper cup when using non-stretch lace.

Sew upper and lower cup together with the 1 cm seam allowance.

Topstitch from the right side, using your fingers to mould the seam and make sure that the seam allowances stay in place. Like before, I use my blindstitch foot for this.
In a fabric combination as this, I fold both seam allowances to the lower cup. When your upper cup is lycra too, or stable lace, then you open the seam allowances and topstitch on both sides of the seam.

Now you trim the seam allowance on the inside very near the topstitching. This will give your cup a smooth curve.

The cup is now finished

Sew the cup to the center front and band with 1 cm seam allowance. If you have a pucker, like I had in this picture, open up a few stitches and make sure everything is inserted neatly. A few wrinkles that you can easily flatten with your fingers is normal, and nothing to worry about. In my picture you see that at the bottom of the cup, where the center front piece and band meet.

The bra is getting shape.

Link to part 4


  1. You've now cleared up my hitch with lace on the upper cup. Thank you.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).