Making a bra - 3

Edited to add: I've made a pdf file for these instructions. You can find it here.

The next part of my tutorial of making a bra. Meanwhile I'm thinking of my next garment to make, other then lingerie. Difficult choice, but I would like something with a bit of a challenge. On the other hand, I need some capris or shorts for the summer. Well, that's for next week.

Making the cups of the bra.

Sew narrow elastic with a zigzag stitch to the scalopped edge of the lace. The elastic should be approximately 10% shorter then the seam. This also applies when you use non-stretch elastic. This narrow elastic will make sure that the cup lies to your breast properly.
Of course there is a difference in using stretch or non-stretch lace. If your lace has a lot of stretch, it will more easily take shape. I find it a matter of personal preference but have used both kind of lace. I tend to add 0,5 cm to the length of the upper cup when using non-stretch lace.


Sew upper and lower cup together with the 1 cm seam allowance.


Topstitch from the right side, using your fingers to mould the seam and make sure that the seam allowances stay in place. Like before, I use my blindstitch foot for this.
In a fabric combination as this, I fold both seam allowances to the lower cup. When your upper cup is lycra too, or stable lace, then you open the seam allowances and topstitch on both sides of the seam.


Now you trim the seam allowance on the inside very near the topstitching. This will give your cup a smooth curve.


The cup is now finished




Sew the cup to the center front and band with 1 cm seam allowance. If you have a pucker, like I had in this picture, open up a few stitches and make sure everything is inserted neatly. A few wrinkles that you can easily flatten with your fingers is normal, and nothing to worry about. In my picture you see that at the bottom of the cup, where the center front piece and band meet.


The bra is getting shape.



Link to part 4