Monday, July 2, 2007

Burda top, FBA

The Burda top I'm making (03-2007-103) was designed for a B-cup. On Pattern Review I read that it needed alteration if you had a larger cup, which did not surprise me. I have a D-cup, so I changed the pattern. As pictures say more than words, and I like to share this information with you, here is what I did. For the pivot and slide method I used the book Fitting Finess from Nancy Zieman, which I find a very helpful book.

1. Add length to the upper part of the pattern, making a 90 degree line to the straight of grain line, cut the pattern and add the extra length (I used 4cm).
The amount needed I measured by comparing the pattern piece to my actual length from shoulder to under my breast.
Don't forget to make this change to the back pattern part and the front band.

This lengthening of the pattern is needed to make sure that the band goes below the breast, and not ends up on your breast.



2. Mark the amount to widen the top in the front, in my case I thought 2 cm would be enough (which of course makes a total of 4 cm extra width in the end).

3. Pivot from top to the marked point. Draw a new line from pivot point to marked point.





















4. The marked point to widen the top is used as second pivot point. Pivot the pattern to the seam line. Mark the line.

The pattern is now changed, armhole and sideseam have not changed, but extra width is added.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Another great tutorial.I now understand FBA much better. You lengthen and widen then? This will help with several empire style top patterns that i have, which have been rejected up till now. Thank you. I was interested in thid top but knew the band would end up in the wrong place, now it does not need to does it!?! You are very generous with your time to blog all this information and share it. I really appreciate it.

Leslie in NZ said...

Sigrid.

Thank you for another great entry on your blog. I especially appreciate the effort you make to document your progress. I learn a lot every time I drop in.

Linda said...

Nice tutorial on pivot and slide. Sometimes that works the best, than the Palmer/Pletsch method. I use both but liked your tutorial that I am going to try Pivot and Slide on next project. Nice tunic top!

Leora Louise said...

I've never seen this method before. Thank you for the nice tutorial!

Maricou said...

That sounds super and I am going to try it with my next project I let you know how it turns out