Thursday, October 4, 2007

Where to start

A few things to share.

1. Answer to question:
Nancy asked me a question in the comments section on the use of Power mesh in the side panel of a bra. I sent her a personal reply, but think this might be of interest to others too. This is a copy of the reply on the subject of Power mesh:

For the sides I just use lycra when it is not too thin. Another method (besides the power mesh you mention, which is hard to get here too) I saw mentioned (but did not try myself) is taking two layers of lycra, with the stretch of one layer different from the other.
I've tried the two layers of lycra with the same stretch direction in the latest bra I made for the undercup (the blue one I posted). This was a new technique for me, and worked wonderful.
Another thing I've done in the past is using tule (a thin, stretch type) as under layer. Remember the side panel needs stretch to close the bra properly.

2. A first picture of my Marfy coat.

Steady progress on this one, but it takes a huge amount of time. I do not keep record of the time I'm sewing on this (don't get paid for these hours anyway!) The pocket is stitched on top of the coat, so welts were needed, but not the pocket part you usually add to them. For a clean finish I used lining fabric, and cut the welt-opening. Then handstitched the opening. What you see is the back of the topstitching. After making the lining for the pocket I decided I didn't like my first topstitching, so I took it out and topstitched again.

3. Some inspiration!
What do you think of these drawings. A great inspiration source for pattern drafting. I once (>15 years ago) took a course in pattern drafting and since then I have these great drawings. Someone copied this for me. It's almost 1000 (thousand) pages, and on each page are four drawings for skirts/pants or just details for necklines, cufs etc. Should try some day to really draft such a detail.

That was a lot of posts of me this week, now I'm very quickly going back to my real work (without leaving my chair!).


  1. Hi Sigrid! Thank you for your comment on my blog - it allowed me to visit yours and I'll be back to look at your projects :)
    To answer your question, I didn't lengthen the bolero. There is another 1027 Onion bolero made up on patternreview, but she didn't add the flounce, and that is what makes the bolero look so much longer.
    The front and back pattern pieces are the same for all three views - the only thing that changes for view C is that you will add the flounce to the basic pattern.
    Hope this helps.

  2. The coat is coming along beautifully! I love to look at things like those drawings - they provide so much inspiration and many ideas!