Skip to main content

Patrones pants

Today I was able to get some pictures for the Patrones pants on me, which I finished yesterday.
The PR review is here.
In general I'm quite pleased with these pants: the front is good, the pockets went in smoothly and the fabric feels very soft on my skin.

I'm not so pleased with the back. This is an issue I presumably always had with pants, but that I only became aware of because of taking pictures for my blog. I will stop making pictures from the back ;-).

Look at this picture of the back. Wrinkles, and though I have read a lot about fitting pants, I'm not sure what to do about them. Is it just taking pictures and am I being too critical or is this a problem that can be solved? If you know what could help, please let me know. I would like to make a pair of pants without these wrinkles.


  1. I am absolutely not competent enough to advise you regarding the back fit, and I'm sure other more experienced readers will help you!
    Just wanted to say that your pants look great and very professional. Hope you get good advice for the wrinkles (I'm sure you will) but they look great anyway.

  2. I agree with Isabelle! Your pants look great and very well made! As for the fitting problem I have a few books at home and will see if I can find some info on this specific problem; in the meanwhile there are two pant fitting tutorials written by Debbie Cook: . I don't know if this relates to your specific problem because fitting pants is such a challenge but it might help somehow. If I find more info about this I'll let you know!

  3. I would go to Debbie Cooks blog. She had the same problem and she has done a lot of tweeking. I am sure she would be able to help.

    Good luck

  4. From my perspective, it looks like the legs have twisted slightly off grain which is causing the wrinkles. Hopefully, Debbie's blog will be able to help you.

  5. You need more room in the rear crotch. to fix this in a finished pant you can scoop out the lower back crotch, 1/4" at a time until the wrinkles disappear In a muslin, pin out the cb until you get the wrinkles to disappear. Remove half the amount from the cb on your pattern and add it to the hip area blending into the leg before the knee point. This gives you more body space without changing the grain of the inseam which creates more problems.

  6. I have no solution, but if you find out, let us know! A friend of mine has the same problem and we've tried about ten mousslins with different solutions, but it didn'T get better, just different. :-/

  7. Sigrid,

    I'm experiencing much of the same trouble as you with pants fit in the back. After about, oh, 10 muslins, I've hit upon a combination of:

    Taking a horizontal tuck in the back pattern between the crotch and the knee, then adding that amount back to the bottom below the knee (as seen in Easy Guide to Sewing Pants by Lynn MacIntyre)

    Taking a rather small (1/2") wedge alteration in the back as well. You'll need to stretch the seam a bit from crotch to knee when you sew. For a good explanation of this, look here:


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…