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What am I working on?

The knock off top is on hold till next weekend. I made the lining and the fit is better, but now is clear that the drape is not as good as I thought. Patsijean kindly sent me some helpful information, and I will redraw the pattern.

Last week I went through my closet, took out all clothes and had a good look at them: which are old, out of style, not as I like them to be etc. The result was a lot of bags that go to goodwill, and a clear sight of what was left and what was missing. One thing was very clear: almost no blouses with short sleeves left, and there is no clear style of things I wear, nor a definite colour scheme. Too many "lonely items". A blouse that has no matching skirt any more, a skirt without matching top... I hope to define my colourscheme better next week, as I will go with a friend to a workshop to define your colours. I'm very curious to learn what those are, and very decided to make a better wardrobe, both in style and colour. Not within a month, mind you, but in the next year or so (you see, I learned from my failed commitment to the PR wardrobe contest, no commitment to a timeframe!)


Earlier this spring I bought fabric for a blouse, that could be combined with my tan or white linen trousers, a pink skirt (to be made) and a white skirt (in my closet, made by me). I decided to use Vogue 2634 for that, one of my few TNT patterns. It's the only pattern that I now make for the 4th time.

Blouse fase 1

The fabric is a plaid, so obviously it took some time to cut. And after I cut the fabric I realised that after all my careful marking I might have to do some adjustment to align the plaid. Mostly I work with patterns without seam allowance, and I do not add those to the pattern. When I mark lines or notches on those patterns, I do mark the seamline. With Vogue of course the seam allowance is included, so to match accurately I  should have marked on the seamline, not the cutting line. It was not so bad, only in the shoulders I had to tweak a bit.


The plaid of course is a bit off at the side of the dart. you won't notice if you wear it.


Blouse slit    Inside slit2 The blouse has a slit on the sides, and I wanted it to be finished neatly, and didn't want to serge the seams. A French seam was not possible because of the slit.
I stitched the seam, pressed it open and folded the seam allowance as you would do for a hem. Then I topstiched the seam, up to the armhole. It's not a usual way of working, but it gave a nice result.


  1. I know what you mean about cleaning out closets and being left with lonely items. I did my summer clothes last fall and what a surprise this ummer when I went loooking for my clothes :) It will take a while to bring it back up since I don't have allot of time to sew, but like you say it will get done in the future. I like your blouse. When I get around to finally finishing my jacket I will gladly take a break from matching fabric lines and work with plain fabrics :) Getting your colours done is a good idea, I had mine done a few years ago and was actually surprised at some of the colours that apparently suited me. I have added these new colours to my wardrobe, for example teal :)

  2. I really love the plaid you've chosen. Nice Spring-y colors!

  3. I love this plaid too. It's bringing back memories for me...I think I made a dress or top out of something very similar in the '70s. I like that Vogue pattern.

  4. I clean out my wardrobe twice a year when I swap over summer and winter clothes, but I never know what to do with the occasional pieces that I've made that I don't wear anymore (for the reasons you pretty much covered!). I just can't throw out anything I've made, so they just go into a bag in storage. I was luckily able to give a lot of my bigger-sized creations to my mom last summer, but what do you do with the clothes you made that don't cut the bill anymore?

  5. Sigrid .- is a good idea to think about what colors .... because in the end I just like me, wearing navy blue, brown and black ..... uhmmmm. I love the plaid blouse with the material, very appropriate for the summer. greetings. Paco

  6. Ah, yes, I clean out the closets, too when the weather changes. I do get rid of things I've made that I've worn very little or that just didn't work for me once I finished them. Please let us know how getting you colors done turns out. I had mine done ages ago, and yes I still wear and look good in those colors!

    I love the plaid, but I always love a good plaid and the neat things you can do with them. The pocket welts cut on the bias are a great touch!

  7. I love your fabric; it's perfect for spring and summer. The pocket flaps cut on the bias is a nice touch. I'll file it for future reference!

  8. That's a lovely summery looking top. I need to go through my wardrobe and look at it closely too. Only I'll be digging out the winterwear, lol.

  9. Beautiful job! I also find it hard to align plaids with patterns with SAs included (though it can be done as you demontrated so well).

    I'm looking forward to know about your colorscheme!


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Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…