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Shirt wadder

I pinned the sleeve into the armhole and that didn’t look too bad. There woud be almost no seam allowance at the point of the ‘corner’ as described in my post from Sunday, but that wouldn’t be too bad.


During construction of the body of the shirt, I got the feeling that it was too wide and that the extra space for the bust was at the wrong place. This is a pattern with pattern pieces for different bust sizes, and I used the D-cup, which is the correct size according to the instructions.

When I had sewn shoulder and side seams it was time to test. For me this is completely not working. It is much too wide and the bust space is too much too the side. Lucky it’s not expensive fabric, pity about the time already invested in the collar and sleeves.

I’m going to sew another shirt from the Burda pattern I used last time and sew a muslin for a pair of much needed pants. Quickly forgetting this pattern.


  1. I find when I use these cup patterns for my daughter that using a size smaller with the d-cup pattern works better.

  2. So glad this is your wadder and not mine. I was considering buying this pattern in the current sale. So I can save money as well as time. Sorry it didn't work for you though.

  3. Bummer! But it's an important skill to know when to throw in the towel and move on to other (hopefully better) patterns.

  4. It's good you can let this one go. What a bummer it didn't work out, but it sounds like your next two projects will be very satisfying.

  5. I am a busty women (slight understatement), but I am NOT a fan of patterns with cup sizes. I'd rather add the dart myself. When the pattern has a dart, it's never the right size (not even a D or DD) and it's NEVER in the right location.

    What a shame. I was planning on buying this pattern. I wonder if it would work better to use the smallest cup size (or no cup, if that is available on the pattern) and then size up myself.

  6. How annoying. I like the patterns with different cup sizes, (I am lazy) but there does seem to be a lot of ease at the bust in some of them, and like Shams, I find the dart placement a bit hit and miss. I will steer clear of this pattern!

  7. How disappointing! I think you are right to just move on rather than grimly marching forward trying to redraft the pattern piece by piece. Hopefully your next project will be more satisfying.

  8. That Vogue pattern is strange! What a shame because the line drawing is so nice. I wonder if you can still use the collar and cuffs on another shirt pattern? If you can get more of the same fabric. It would be nice to use them, they looked so good.

  9. What a pity, but these things just happen every now and then. The first 2 pictures don't even look that bad to me. But if you feel it's a wadder then it's indeed time to move on to the next thing.

  10. What a shame! Like Robin said, maybe you could reuse the collar and cuffs?

  11. That's too bad, but it is good that you're just letting it go. Too often we keep at something that should have been let go much earlier in the process.

  12. Do you have more fabric? An option would be to recut the body of the blouse in order to use the collar and sleeves.

  13. It's a pity it didn't work out like you hoped, but good on you for moving onwards and upward to new and better things! It does look like a strange pattern...

  14. I'm sorry that the pattern didn't work out for you, but I have to say I am glad that I'm not the only one having sizing issues with BMV patterns. According to their tables I would need a size 22 but this is way too large. I started to automatically make a size 20 which is much better. And it's the same with cup sizes: I would need Cup D according to instructions, but the C-Cup patterns fit me much better.

  15. Oh, how sad... All that work... Would tissue fitting the pattern have worked to show you this possible problem?

  16. Ouch. That does look awful. Burda is always much better fit than Vogue, unless you're using Sandra Betzina who starts from her own block and not Vogue's standard ones. Sad..

  17. Oh dear, too bad about this. :( But so smart to know when to wad it, rather than carry on and hate the final result.

  18. Hopefully you don't think of this as a waste of time, cause you learned a lot. Actually rotating some of those darts would have made them a lot more palatable, but in the long run, you learned a lot - and so yeah, it's a wadder, but at least you didn't let it stop you or get you down, AND you will be surprised the next time you're met with this sort of challenge how you'll plug right through! Personally, I think it takes a lot of moxie to post this, as other people can learn too.

  19. What a shame - it's the time wasted that is most frustrating!


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