Skip to main content

Pants Vogue 2896

I managed to find some time to sew. So I sewed last of the three I cut two weeks ago.
It's the pants of Vogue 2896, a Anne Klein pattern. Last summer I bought this pattern, my first Vogue in years.
The pants are very simple, no pockets or other details. I won't do a full PR-review, as I don't exactly remember what I changed last year, when I first made these. I do remember starting with size 16 and making it smaller afterwards.

Knowing what pattern change I need since my experiments of last week, I should have changed this pattern a bit too, but it was already cut. But luckily it is a wider pants, it is not too bad in the back. I even lean a bit to the left, hence the extra wrinkle there.

From the line drawing, it looks these pants have a straight waistband. This is not so, the waistband is actually very much shaped. So much that I couldn't get into the pants when I used this waistband (also already found out last year). I straightened the waistband, but did not make it completely straight.

The fabric is a very beautiful quality wool, with great drape. I lined it with a good quality (Venezia) fabric too, and these pants feel great.

Two pictures of the inside: I always sew the upper part of the center back seam last, I find that this gives a better fit. I learned this from RTW pants that I could easily take in because of this seam, but saw now that it is also recommended in the Burda sewing book to do it like this.
It made it a bit more trouble with the lining, which I hand-sewed in center back. Next time I will try the lining method as described in Sandra Betzina's book Power Sewing.

I did not sew a hongkong finish to the whole of the waistband (if you want to do that, a good tutorial was written by Tany in this post). But I did make such a finish at the sides of the waistband in the back. And yes, the stripes do not match in the back of the waistband. Grrr.


  1. Sigrid, those pants look great! Love the fabric, it looks very luxurious and classy. The fit seems really nice.
    I would love to make a pair of pinstripe trousers and you inspire me.

  2. Those are some elegant trousers! Very nice insides, too , which make them a pleasure to wear.

  3. Wow, those look great. I saw the leave-the-center-back-seam-until-last trick on a pair of expensive RTW trousers recently, and I think it's a wonderful idea. I'll have to try it once I actually start making tailored pants :) .

  4. You are really doing well with your pant fitting. These and the pink/red pair look great.

    I have been doing a lot of reading about pants fitting but am not yet ready to take the plunge!

  5. Okay maybe the stripes don't match but those are an awfully good looking pair of pants!

  6. Sigrid, these trousers look fabulous on you! Very elegants and haute couture! I love pinstripes (can you tell?) and I'm in awe with your fabric!


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…