Skip to main content

Bias strips on lapel and pocket

My jacket is almost finished. A little bit of work on the lining, buttonholes and buttons and then it’s ready. Before posting about the finished jacket below the way I made the bias strips of fabric on the lapel and the welt pockets. Photographed on scraps, while I was doing it on the jacket I forgot those.

 

First the bias strip was ironed with a bias tape maker. As the fabric is a linen and cotton mix it is easy to iron.

Then I took the SA curve ruler and placed that on the edge of the pattern piece. All strips were sewn before further construction of the lapel or welt. The bias strips I placed to the inside edge of the ruler and in this way the distance was even everywhere. My seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8”) and in this way half a centimeter remained between seam line and bias tape.

I used a special adhesive pen I recently found in a notions store (website here).

 

But still used some pins too.

 

The final step was topstitching using the blindstitch foot and upholstery thread  which is a bit thicker than normal thread.

Comments

  1. This is looking so stylish - your bias strip is beautifully executed. Looking forward to seeing it all finished...J

    ReplyDelete
  2. A beautiful and unusual detail, Sigrid!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great detail. I am looking forward to seeing the finished jacket.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Ik ben gek op details, ze maken het jasje net meer eigen. Ben erg benieuwd hoe het definitieve plaatje eruit ziet.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Beautiful detail! That glue pen looks interesting too.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Beautiful. Your use of all these notins is enlightening.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Interesting detail and thank you for showing it.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Love this. I have one of these bias tape makers but haven't mastered it. Must reread instructions!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Found Great Notes at your Blog......!!


    lapel pins

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.



Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.






My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…

A new to me pattern company

If you’ve been reading my blog for a long time you know I’m not too much into Indie designers. After the initial hype a few names/brands have survived that offer more than just a simple pencil skirt at a ridiculous price. I still haven’t tried many but this time I was intrigued enough to buy the Wenona shirt pattern from Named Clothing.I saw a review on this shirt that made me look further. Must have lived under the proverbial rock because I’ve never seen or noticed it before and it has some nice details and there are some nice variations to be found (here and here for example). Though I’m certainly not the first one to try this pattern, I’ll post my experiences with it in this and upcoming posts. The pattern is a pdf pattern. I’m not fond of them, but have grown accustomed to the idea that it’s the way it is now. Sometimes it is instant gratification if you want the pattern fast or don’t want to pay high shipping costs.Notes on the pdf fileAvailable in English and FinnishLots of inst…