Skip to main content

SA ruler–coupon code


In my post from today on the muslin of my jacket, I showed that I made the seam allowances with the SA rulers from Claire.
I got the 3/8 and 5/8 ruler to review and I’m so happy with them. It made adding seam allowances to my jacket pattern pieces very, very easy. I see a lot of ways of using them. I do have French curve rulers, but these rulers combine the french curves with the ease of adding seam allowances at the same time. Also tracing a pattern from Burda or Ottobre is easy. Claire shows that in a video as well.

Below the 5/8 ruler used on a Burda sheet.
 
Not all curves/lines can be drawin in one pass, just move the ruler a bit and you have the right piece of the curve again (or a straight line).

If you’ve read my blog for a longer period, you might know I’m not a great fan of the 5/8 default seam allowances, because I miss my reference of the size of the actual pattern piece (being European and grown up with Burda and Knip Mode has to do with this I think).
This makes it a matter of seconds to add the actual seam lines.

\
And I’ve used the 3/8 ruler for tracing a bra patter. The 1/4”inch line is a good seam allowance for this kind of sewing.
 
As said, I’ve received these from Claire for reviewing, but I wouldn’t be as positive as I am if I was not happy with them. She has some other nice gadgets too and is working on metric rulers.
If you would like some as well she has a discount code for my readers: use SIGRID20 (valid till July 31 2013) in her shop for a 20% discount. That’s a nice discount isn’t it?

Comments

  1. they look really handy so have ordered the 5/8 set and also got the shirt and pocket maker too as I have heard good things about that too.

    thanks for the link and the coupon (thanks Claire)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for sharing this tool. I will check it - it would be much easier to reduce or add seam allowancess with it. Wonderful!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I do covet these as i like to add seam allowances after alteration, but I think I might wait for the metric version - I'm slowly learning these fractions of inches, but I can't be the only one who wishes the US would go metric!

    ReplyDelete
  4. How clever are these - thanks for the review! Australia is also a metric user, so I will have to wait for the metric versions...J

    ReplyDelete
  5. I feel an early Christmas present coming on!

    So many times I have wished I had a ruler for JUST the seam allowance. Thanks for letting us know about this, Sigrid.

    ReplyDelete
  6. This is a dream come true. I normally use my tape measure but it is not rigid. I've just ordered one.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Well, 5/8" is very much the same as 1.5 cm when talking about seam allowances, right? I don´t have to weit for the metric version, as all european patterns work with 1.5 cm. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  8. sewalife: you're right 5/8 is 1.5 cm, 3/8 is 1 centimeter. I use the metric system and work wit these rulers easily. It might just be a bit easier when the ruler is in a system you're (more) used to. But no need to wait when you're happy working with these measurements

    ReplyDelete
  9. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…