Skip to main content

Tracing and making muslins

That's mostly what I'm doing at the moment when I have a spare moment. As said last week I'm making long working hours at the moment, and there is little time for actual sewing besides the normal work in house, children with exams etc. I managed to sew the muslin for the coat sew along, as shown in my post last weekend.

I do agree with those of you who commented here or on the sew along blog that the collar is the main problem. As the Butterick pattern also has another view with a conventional collar, I will take the collar off and sew the other collar on.

Still, I'm not completely convinced that it is the right pattern, so I traced a BWOF coat too, to compare style and fit. Tonight I cut the muslin, and hope to sew it before or in the weekend.

It's pattern no. 120 from the December 2006 issue. No reviews to be found, but I am more sure with the fit of BWOF patterns.
Dawn of the blog Two on, two off wrote a post today on why she likes BWOF patters, and I agree with her on most points, especially fit and not having too much ease. And I would like to add the consistency of fit of BWOF. I really don't know for sure which size to make with the "big 4". Remember the dress my daughter made from a McCall's pattern? By size chart she needed a 12, we ended up with size 6. This doesn't happen with BWOF. At least, I never had that experience.

I also traced and cut a muslin for this jacket. This is from  BWOF February 2003, pattern 115. A relatively easy jacket with  princess seams and  collar stand. For this I'm going to use the bouclé fabric I received from Textile Studio Patterns last month. 

Well, I hope to have some sewing time this weekend. I need the diversion.


  1. I agree with the consistency of fit. The one thing I wonder though is about the coats. There seems to be little ease in them (which we seem to like with our regular clothes) but I wouldn't mind a bit more with my coats.

  2. I agree about the fit, especially in set in sleeves. The Big 4 always seem to have too much ease in the sleeve cap and I need to remove some of it. I never have this problem in Burda. I think that on the whole, the details are better or at least there! By the way, I like the BWOF coat better. Not that you asked.

  3. Well, BWOF patterns usually fit me without major alterations (slight sway back adjustment sometimes) so they are undoubtly my favorites

  4. I've made this 2003 BWOF jacket before and I found it to be a nice fit. I never adjust Burda patterns, they seem to fit me well. I made the size 38. It seems to have enough ease to wear a light sweater underneath.

  5. Can I include your observations over on my blog? I'll put it under the "Fit" category. And, of course, give you credit. ;)

  6. I agree with you on the fit of BWOF - very consistent. With Big 4 patterns, I always go by the finished measurements printed on the pattern tissue at the bust, waist and hip marks and ignore the pattern envelope.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…