Saturday, June 18, 2016

Zipper and pocket insertion

The next step is inserting the zipper and the pocket. There are other ways of doing this, but this is what works for me. I did not make pattern pieces for the pocket, I seldom do for jacket pockets and go with pieces of fabric that are large enough and cut them in shape during the process.

First step was basting the zipper into the window and stitch at the edges to sew the zipper in.



The zipper after stitching and removing the basting threads.


How it looks on the inside.


For the part of the pocket that is attached to the lower zipper tape (never visible) I chose a cotton fabric that I sewed onto the zipper tape.



Pressed downward


The fabric that is attached to the top zipper tape is the fashion fabric, it will be visible when opening the zipper.


Now I pinned the pocket lines to the two rectangles of fabric


Stitched, cut in shape and the edges zigzagged


A peek into the pocket. The fabric of the inner pocket is nog on the same grain as the jacket itself. To me that is of no importance, the pocket will not be open normally and it only serves the impression you get of the same fabric when you do open the pocket. For once I just don’t mind.


With so many pictures this might look as a lot of work, but actually it isn’t complicated and it took me 45 minutes (looking at the time of the first photo and the last).

One tip if you do this: work both pockets at the same time. Don’t do the first one and then the other. It will make sure both pockets/zippers are as identical as they can be. I always try to do that when there’s more than one of the same thing to sew (sleeves, cups for a bra, shoulder straps etc.)


  1. The zipper pocket looks really nice. I am tempted to try this technique on a pair of pants, for some interest. Thanks for sharing!

  2. It looks very neat. When you say you do both at the same time - do you do one step on one pocket and then the same step on the other pocket? Or do one full pocket and then the other, but in the same sewing session?

  3. What a stroke of genius to not cut pattern pieces for the pocket but to use large-enough pieces of fabric and cut them to shape during the process! How many struggles I could have saved myself if I had followed that idea. Thank you!

  4. Excellent tutorial which I've saved for future reference.

  5. zippered pockets are a nice touch and easier than a double welt pocket. I love chunky zippers.

  6. Love the zipper detail and will also be referring to this when I finally get a jacket that fits me.