Skip to main content

Interfacing the body–part 2

First and foremost, thank you so much for all the comments indicating that a lot of my readers like to see the details of construction. The teacher in me likes to share and document the process, but if it’s not of interest to anyone I’d better use my time sewing Winking smile. I have my times in and out of blogging, which I now regard as something natural. In the early years of blogging I used to feel I “had” to post. That feeling has gone, it’s one of the things I do and like doing very much, but there are times it’s just not a priority and I’m fine with that too.

Onwards to the jacket. I’ve added extra interfacing at the point where the pockets are to be set in and  added a strip to the neckline and center front. (the seam needs an extra pressing)


I know this pattern fits and I’ve added 1cm (3/8 inch) seam allowances. After applying the interfacing I marked a few crucial spots with carbon tracing paper: start/finish of front zipper insertion, waistline and of course the pocket line. The last one was hardly visible after applying the extra layer of interfacing and I traced it with a pencil and basted the line so it’s visible it at the front.


The tape I used at the neckline and center front is “off grain tape”. I bought this in the UK at the English Couture Company when I did a class there. It’s exactly what it says, off grain, not on the bias. It means it has a little stretch, perfect for a slight curve but also giving stability on the straight parts. It’s also very easy to replace it with a strip of interfacing that’s on grain, which is what Alison Smith does in her Craftsy class. Then you just clip the tape where needed. I’ll probably do that on my next jacket, as this was the last I had.


In her Craftsy class Alison Smith also uses the strip of interfacing at the shoulder seam and armhole. I won’t do that in this jacket probably (still debating).

LindaC asked which fabric this is. I don’t know the exact content of it. It was the last bit on the bolt and it didn’t mention the content. I thought it had a bit of silk in it but the shop owner said it was viscose (rayon) with some other fiber. Whatever it is, it has a lovely texture and shine and is easy to work with.


  1. Thanks for your reply. :)
    I'm enjoying this series on your jacket.

  2. Blogging and documenting what you are doing all takes time, so thank you for sharing.

  3. Thank you so much for all the details.. I really love to see the finished garment, but the finish is so much better when I know how it was all put together. I started a jacket/coat last year, but the pattern instructions doesn't really talk about all the layers of interfacing and support features that are really required to have a professional finish. I love to learn and really don't spend time reading blogs that don't teach me something from time to time.

  4. lavori da vero belli complimenti e grazie per condivisione lili


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…