Jackets are the type of garment I love to sew most. By far. I love the whole process of planning, cutting, interfacing and construction. In general it’s a time consuming process, but cut in several stages it’s very manageable.
The inspiration for my next jacket was one I saw in a television broadcast. I tried to find a picture but could not find it. It is a jacket with V-neckline, 3/4 length sleeves, a zipper center front and also the pockets will have a zipper. In the category jackets it’s relatively easy (compared to a notched collar for example)
The first step was to draft the pattern. I based the pattern on the jacket I made last year and made a quick muslin of the body because I wanted to be sure the V was drafted correctly. With a deeper V-neckline the pattern has to be adjusted to make sure there is no gaping.
No need to be worried, the fit is good. I didn’t muslin the sleeves, I know they are ok because they are exactly the same as in the other jacket. Only difference is the 3/4 length on this summer jacket.
A detail shot of the fabric used.
Front pieces have been assembled. I’m waiting for the zippers to arrive, then I can construct the pockets.
A peek on the wrong side. All pieces for the body were interfaced with a light weight interfacing. The upper part of the back is interfaced with a more heavy weight interfacing.
The front has a so called shoulder placket. This is made in two layers, as instructed by Alison Smith in her Craftsy class Structure & Shape. A course (and the total series) I heartily recommend when you’re interested in jacket construction.
The first layer is hair canvas, cut on the bias.
This is attached with fusible interfacing which extends at the shoulder and armhole. In this way the canvas is attached, but still moving freely at the bottom.
Next step is a strip of interfacing at the edge.
Do you like to read this detailed information? In the discussion about blogging versus instagram/facebook etc. that is going on now I’m definitely in the “I keep with blogging” camp, having neither an instagram or facebook account, so I don’t even know what I’m missing.
I’m wondering though whether it’s still interesting to read the detailed posts about construction. Would you prefer to only see the finished garment?