Skip to main content

Better than RTW, but

My pair of Vogue pants is better than anything I can buy in the shops, but it still has issues in the back. The holy grail of pants fitting, sigh.

I did change the pattern, made another muslin and thought I had the fit issues solved.

This is a picture after my daughter pinned the back. I did sew the altered line, and it seemed good. Then I decided to make a pair without all the nice details first, as I need a few basic pants for summer. And the result is a bit disappointing in the back. I hate those lines and the crotch seamline isn't good either (and I did change that like Nancy K suggested).

Why is it that the muslin seems right, and the final garment is not as expected? I want my next pair (on which I plan to do all the detailed work with piping) to be good!

Comments

  1. Hi Sigrid, I have been making jeans lately and had similar fit difficulties. My first pair was exactly as you describe "better than RTW but...".

    I agree with you that your first muslin does look good, the only difference I can see is the fabric. Perhaps the weight, drap or give of the two fabrics is affecting the fit? Just guessing really.

    If you are happy to try another muslin, the changes that worked for me were to shorten the crotch length in the back and taper this down the inside thigh seam. I also pinned a dart in the mid back leg (more or less where I could grab hold of the loose folds). There are pics showing the adjustments on p55 of the PR jeans forum. You would need to do this instead of the horizontal dart, as I don't think both would work together.

    I still really like your first pair :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have had these issues too, and I found that I needed to remove more, also read add more body space, than I ever thought. I hate to say this, but more than one muslin is usually necessary. For me, more like 3. That's why I have my tnt pattern and just draft details. I have a very strange looking hip line, which works even though it looks strange. The pinning out that I was talking about was a vertical tuck at the cb and then you add back at the hip what you took out at cb. It sounds counter intuitive, but it works so that the ease remains the same. This gives you more room for your body. If you have a flexible ruler, or make one out of tin foil, it needs to be thick enough to keep it's shape, fit it around your crotch from waist to waist, and then carefully remove it and you can compare it to the shape of your pattern front and back. It will be very clear that you need more body space or less depending on your body. If you do a search on PR someone posted a tip about this.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Bonjour Sigrid, pants are so difficult to fit. From your pink muslin to your pants, something happened on the hip line and with the crotch line if I am seeing well on the pictures?(which happens to me all the time. My bible for pants fitting is a book published by Singer and now available by an other company called "Sewing pants that fit" Their fitting suggestions do miracles for me. Do not loose faith, your are such an excellent sewist, you will conquer the mountain !

    ReplyDelete
  4. Try this: Let out the back inseam only, from the crotch down. See if the wrinkles disappear. If so, then take in the outer seam in that area until you have the width in the leg that you want.

    ReplyDelete
  5. You can make these look better by scooping out the back crotch seam. Do it 1/4' at a time, though you'll need to take out a lot probably, but a small amount at a time is safer.

    ReplyDelete
  6. As Nancy K says I usually need more than 1 muslin, and I've made the mistake several times in not matching the muslin fabric to the fashion fabric. The weave and weight of the two is important if you want to re-create your muslin fit. I've also managed to somehow loose track of the grain line when making my new pattern from my nicely fitted muslin and so get strange pulling in the garment when I've made it up in fashion fabric. I'm sure though that you will end up with a very nice TNT pattern; it's definitely worth persevering. Good luck

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hi Sigrid! Unfortunately I have no advice to offer as I am so not an expert with pants - precisely because I find the fitting process to be so frustrating.
    You seem to have gotten good advice here and I hope you'll manage to make these pants work.
    Your first pair still does look better than RTW, as you said! It looks great and very professional, and so classy.
    Good luck! and happy sewing :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. Oh the perils of fabric! There are some fabrics that just don't like to co-operate and have there own ideas. :) It happens to the best of us. You could alter again but then the next fabric may give you wrinkles somewhere else. I tell you it's a conspiracy! Forget about it and move on. You can't see your own buttocks when walking around. :) As you said yourself they are better than RTW so wear them and be happy.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Pants are such a pain to fit! The muslin in your post looks good, it's a shame it hasn't worked for you. I cna't offer much advice, but I have found the Palmer-Pletsch book 'pants for real people' helpful. Good luck!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).