Skip to main content

Sleeve vent (version 2)

As promised last week, another way to make a sleeve with vent. This is a more classic method, with no hong kong finishing as in the previous method. And like Maree said in her comment on my previous tutorial, it is quite a bit of work, but I want to explore these methods myself. Taking pictures and writing it down is also a good way to keep track of my experiments for myself.


Upper sleeve vent is cut without seam allowance, under sleeve vent with seam allowance.
I've marked the lines in the picture with extra lines.
Sew sleeve seam without vent. Cut and grade seam as necessary for your fabric.
Interface the upper sleeve and under sleeve. Do not interface the facing of the uppersleeve.

You could also interface the separate sleeve parts and then sew the sleeve seam.
Fold up the hem allowance of the upper sleeve.
Fold the sleeve vent facing of the upper sleeve and mark the point where hem and vent meet.
Draw a straight line from marking to point of hem.
Sew the facing and hem together on these lines.
Trim seam allowance.
Open seam and fold back.
This is the result. (the black is my pencil marking)
Sew the buttonholes.
For the under sleeve, fold the hem allowance to the right side.
Stitch seam (don't know what my sewing machine was up to, it's not very straight).
Fold back.
Sew the other sleeve seam till the start of the vent.
Make a diagonal cut in the under sleeve seam only.
Press seam open.
If wanted you can handstitch the upper part of the vent, indicated by the arrow. I didn't do that here.
Right side of sleeve.
The inside.


  1. Thanks for these tutorials. So much clearer than the books I have!

  2. thank you! This makes things much clearer for me, too.

  3. Thanks for the great tutorial Sigrid. It all makes sense now.

  4. Sigrid .- thanks for the tutorial, this is also an excellent method. greetings, Paco

  5. Great tutorial! I use another tutorial for sleeve vents (only do them very occasionally) but will switch to yours. Your pictures are so much better :) .

  6. This is a great tutorial, Sigrid, I love the mitered corner. Thank you!

  7. Excellent! Thanks for this tutorial, Sigrid!

  8. OMG, i spent hours searching on how to do these hems. used to work in a tailor shop, couldn't remember how to do this hem. if i knew you, i would give you a giant hug!! thank you thank you =D

  9. Thanks for this tutorial. I'm currently in the process of making one of these sleeves for the first time, and of course BurdaStyle's directions left me totally confused. This is making so much more sense, and I'll definitely be using it to finish the sleeves up!

  10. Thank you so much for this tutorial!! It was really beneficial... You are a real teacher!! Thank you! :)

  11. Thank you so much for this tutorial!! It was really beneficial... You are a real teacher!! Thank you! :)


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…