Skip to main content

Interfacing the jacket

I want this jacket to last some time, and do a little bit more than usual for a summer jacket. I considered using the stitch and flip method for this jacket, but decided against it, as I want to be able to fit while sewing. Though I made a muslin, I want that flexibility.

In the next pictures I'm showing what I did for the interfacing, and I'm definitely not saying this is the correct way to do it. I'm experimenting on some points for the first time, and have gathered my information from previous experiences, several books, and of course the internet. Just sharing my experience, could be misinterpreted, should be experiment .

The front, completely interfaced (woven interfacing, I don't know the English names for all varieties) except for dart opening and hem allowance. The front facing has another interfacing.
This was a "judgement call" as Roberta Carr says in her book. I thought it would be too much to have two layers of the same interfacing.

On the shoulder thers is an extra piece of interfacing, cut on the bias.
I left a small opening between the two interfacings on the front. Without pressing the fold is already good.

This was inspired by something that was done in the book mentioned below for the lapel in the fusible method.
Inside collar on the bias, no seam allowances on the interfacing.
Front side panel completely interfaced except hem allowance.
Back side panel only the hem and the armhole.
Sleeves: hem and top of sleeve rounding.
Back: sewn in interfacing, as by instruction in the book below. As the book showed a back without center back seam, I decided to sew the jacket pieces first, and do the same for the interfacing pieces, then I sewed the interfacing to the seam allowances.

The hem was interfaced too.

All partial interfacing (hem, sleevecap) was cut with pinking shears. In this fabric the line of the interfacing will not be very visible, but I did it all the same.

A great book for tailoring jackets is this one, which I bought after Tany wrote about it.

The book has many, many pictures and describes the conventional tailoring methods, the machine method and the fusible method.

Some Q/A

Nancy K asked for the name of the tool: in English it's a sewing gauge. This specific, aluminium tool is hard to get now, and the common available gauge is plastic, and does not have the 1,5 cm (5/8") measurement, which mine has.

LindaNan commented on the combined Bernina: thank you for that comment. I received a similar reaction in a private mail, so I will certainly take it with me in my decision.

And Vicky added the computer to the list of things Els mentioned that should work always. Yes Vicky, you're so right, I really thought of your comment when mine refused to install new software and had to restart 3 times this afternoon. Then I decided to do my interfacing! Came to something good.

Comments

  1. Sigrid - On Gorgeous Things blog she has just reviewed a metal seam guide she was given as a present. Could this be similar to what you are referring to?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Sorry I also meant to say that I've got very little experience with interfacing, so I'm reading anything written about it, avidly.

    ReplyDelete
  3. You are doing great, Sigrid!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).