Saturday, July 19, 2008

Coat sew along (3)

This is my fabric, together with two shawls I found in exactly the right color. Els was so kind to help me decide on the interfacing, as the fabric is a bit too loosely woven for a coat fabric. Both Melissa and Els sent me samples for the interlining, as also an extra layer for warmth is needed. Thank you both for your help.

As said in my previous post, it takes me a long time and 3 muslins to decide on my coat. After two BWOF muslins I've decided on BWOF 11-2006-108. A more classiic style, and the collar style is better on me than the others I showed before.

I made both muslins in size 44, but in the last one (shown on the left) I added quite a lot of space at hip height. As you can see from the other muslin, I need that.

11-2006-108 12-2006-120  
The upper part of the coat with notch collar is a bit too wide. The other too snug. I wear the same winter jacket under each muslin.

I'm unsure how this space will be filled by a more substantial fabric, combined with interlining.
Same story in the back, back of sleeve is a bit too much space perhaps.
  The side view of the coat I've decided that will be my pattern.
Should I use 42 or even 40 for the upper part?
Or would I need the space for fabric, interlining and lining?

I appreciate your comments on this.


  1. i do like the notched collar vs. the rounded collar. but, yes, the pic. on the left is definetly too large in the back and bust...need i say 'frumpy'. and you have never looked frumpy! the right photo fits nicely. can you just adjust the hips? will you be using vilene to stabilize your seams?

  2. I would think that it is a bit too big but will be interesting to see what the experts think.

  3. Good pattern choice on you. I think I would go down a size - I know it's difficult deciding when the fabric will be thicker and you want to wear clothes under it.

  4. Good choice, a beautiful pattern!

    The last coat I did was for my husband. I also had done a muslin that seemed a bit frumpy on the back. But as my fabric was a warm, dense an relatively stiff wool fabric, the wrinkles disappeared because the fabric and the interfacing (I had used horsehair) would just stand out. And on a man broad shoulders don't look bad.

    I think I would still take out a bit on the back. (But I'm not an expert either....) I'd try to see how much space I need when I want to move my arms and then take out about half of what is still too much.

    As far as the collar is concerned it is good, if you prefere to wear your scarf inside the collar. (Try the musslin with a scarf, if you usually wear one in winter.) Elseway I would guess the fabric will not take all the space that is there. But that I always find hard to predict, especially when one cannot touch the fabric.

    The shoulders to me look fine, so if you go down one size it might become a bit snug there. (Will there be shoulder pads?)

  5. I like the look of the round collar and I agree that the notched collar one appears too big. I'm not an expert with heavier fabrics, but I would assume that some of those folds would not be there in the thicker woollen fabric.

  6. That'a a fabulous pattern, I love it!

    The collar looks fine to me and maybe it looks wider for the same reason mine did (not stabilizing the neck seam on the muslin). I think it will look fine made up of real fashion fabric.

    On the last couple of pictures (side view) the front seems to be riding up a bit (the hem is not parallel to the ground). It may be the way the muslin coat is set on the shoulders or the picture angle, so I'm not sure if this is something you should address as a fitting issue or not. Other than that it looks perfect (but I am no fit expert)

  7. I like this coat much better than the first, or the one on the right. But, I do think that it is too big in the shoulders. Don't you usually take a smaller size and do an fba? I also think that you might need a flat back adjustment. I can't see where the side seam is, but the front seems to be rising a bit. Is the side seam pulling to the front? I also think that you may have added a bit too much to the hips, but this is easy to take in in later, and you might need the room with underlining, etc.

  8. You said that Els had made a suggestion on interfacing. What are you using?

  9. I LOVE your fabric choice and the color combinations you chose with scarves! I agree with the previous posts that the back looks a bit big, but again, I'm no expert. I don't even own a real winter coat as the desert rarely requires that type of clothing. I love them, though, and am looking forward to seeing all of the entries in the coat sew along when you are finished. Enjoy the journey!