Skip to main content

BWOF 07-2007-106 , origami blouse

English Nederlands

It's finished, but I'm not really satisfied with the inset of the sleeves. I'll take them out again.
And the reason I'm posting this already has to do with the back: what is wrong here?

I don't mean the sleeves, but the part just below the yoke line. Is it too wide?
I used size 40 and did a FBA, which usually gives good results.
Anyone know what to do?

Q/A Valerie asked if I would do a tutorial on the origami detail.
Let me explain, it's quite easy, and I never did any serious orgami folding before.

I used the width of my placket as guideline. That is 4 cm.
1. Mark 2 lines twice the distance you want, and mark the center point.

2. Fold on the center point and titch on the two marked line.

3. Fold the center point on the stitched line, and pin on the sides

4. Pull the center point backwards and fold all lines

5. Ready. I made almost invisible hand stitches on each corner and in the center, so that I would not loose the folding when washing the blouse (not in the picture).

De blouse is klaar, maar ik ben niet tevreden over de inzet van de mouwen. Ik ga ze weer uithalen. Dat ik het nu al laat ziet heeft met de rug te maken. Wat is hier niet goed?

Ik bedoel niet de mouwen, maar het rugdeel net onder de horizontale lijn. Ik heb maat 40 met FBA gebruikt, en normaal geeft dat voor mij een goed resultaat.
Weet iemand wat ik hier moet doen?

Q/A Valerie vroeg of ik een uitleg zou geven van het origami deel. Het is makkelijk, en ik heb nooit veel aan origami vouwen gedaan.

De breedte van het knoopdeel was de leidraad, bij mij is dat 4 cm.
1. Markeer 2 maal de afstand die je wilt met lijnen en markeer het middenpunt

2. Vouw op het middenpunt en stik op de gemarkeerde lijn.

3. Vouw het middenpunt naar de gestikte lijn, en speld vast.

4. Trek het middenpunt naar achteren en vouw alle lijnen.

5. Klaar. Op de hoeken heb ik bijna onzichtbare steken met de hand gemaakt om te zorgen dat de vouwen in de was blijven zitten. Die zie je niet op deze foto.


  1. Very good and thourough turorial, well done!
    Now the sleeves: it looks like you are having the same problem I had with the Armani coat sleeves; I altered the shape of the armhole on the back and also the back sleeve cap to remove the excess fabric. A couple of days ago I received a book (bought on Ebay) with pretty good info on fitting sleeves and armholes, I'll email you some scanned pages and maybe it helps

  2. Cool! I love the effect - thanks for taking the time to make the tutorial.

  3. I had the same problem with the muslin for my leather jacket. I have a very erect back and while I have always taken out length I had never also narrowed the upper back until I was stumped and looked through all my fitting books. I also have a long arm joint and need to lower the under arm. Sandra Betzina also suggests that when you alter for a forward shoulder that you add to the front of the sleeve cap 1/4" and take off the back of the sleeve cap. I did all of the above for my jacket and this took care of the wrinkles. So that is 3 different fitting issues that contributed to my wrinkles.

  4. Another thought. Pin up the shoulders and see if that helps. Looking again they seem a bit sloped. also pin a vertical fold at the shoulder. They look a tad wide to me.

  5. I had a similar problems with my fitting as well. I thought your shoulders look a bit wide and even your neck area looks a bit big.

    Looks like if you took a wedge tuck below the yoke to your armhole it would dissapear. So maybe Tany's suggestion or raising the back armhole somehow. Maybe you can do this into the yoke piece?

  6. I have no suggestions regarding the fit of the shirt...I am sure that you will get some really good advice! I just wanted to thank you for the orgami tutorial!

  7. Despite the sleeve issue, your shirt looks gorgeous! And thank you so much for the origami tutorial.

  8. Thank you for the tutorial, you make it look so easy.

  9. Sorry I don't have any advice to offer on the fit as that is not my strong point...!

    Thanks for showing us how you did the origami. It really is so simple but the results are spectacular!

  10. You beat me to the origami tutorial. It's precise and clear as always. I will try to do mine as well asap... or simply link to yours if you don't mind :o)

  11. I love the origami detail - absolutely love it! Thank you so much for the very clear and concise tutorial.
    It looks like you've gotten a lot of good feeback on the fit. I concur, it looks as if you need at least a narrow back adj in this pattern. You may not have a narrow back - but this pattern has a wide one for sure.
    It's ok, but I'd also point out that if you make this again, you can probably reduce some of the flair at the hip too. Lucky you, you don't need quite that much room below the waist.

  12. Your origami blouse is beautiful, Sigrid. I love the way your blouse fits at the waist and hips. Beautiful!

  13. What a beautiful blouse! Great job.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…