Saturday, March 1, 2008

BWOF 07-2007-106 , origami blouse



English Nederlands

It's finished, but I'm not really satisfied with the inset of the sleeves. I'll take them out again.
And the reason I'm posting this already has to do with the back: what is wrong here?

I don't mean the sleeves, but the part just below the yoke line. Is it too wide?
I used size 40 and did a FBA, which usually gives good results.
Anyone know what to do?

Q/A Valerie asked if I would do a tutorial on the origami detail.
Let me explain, it's quite easy, and I never did any serious orgami folding before.

I used the width of my placket as guideline. That is 4 cm.
1. Mark 2 lines twice the distance you want, and mark the center point.


2. Fold on the center point and titch on the two marked line.


3. Fold the center point on the stitched line, and pin on the sides


4. Pull the center point backwards and fold all lines


5. Ready. I made almost invisible hand stitches on each corner and in the center, so that I would not loose the folding when washing the blouse (not in the picture).


De blouse is klaar, maar ik ben niet tevreden over de inzet van de mouwen. Ik ga ze weer uithalen. Dat ik het nu al laat ziet heeft met de rug te maken. Wat is hier niet goed?

Ik bedoel niet de mouwen, maar het rugdeel net onder de horizontale lijn. Ik heb maat 40 met FBA gebruikt, en normaal geeft dat voor mij een goed resultaat.
Weet iemand wat ik hier moet doen?

Q/A Valerie vroeg of ik een uitleg zou geven van het origami deel. Het is makkelijk, en ik heb nooit veel aan origami vouwen gedaan.

De breedte van het knoopdeel was de leidraad, bij mij is dat 4 cm.
1. Markeer 2 maal de afstand die je wilt met lijnen en markeer het middenpunt


2. Vouw op het middenpunt en stik op de gemarkeerde lijn.


3. Vouw het middenpunt naar de gestikte lijn, en speld vast.


4. Trek het middenpunt naar achteren en vouw alle lijnen.


5. Klaar. Op de hoeken heb ik bijna onzichtbare steken met de hand gemaakt om te zorgen dat de vouwen in de was blijven zitten. Die zie je niet op deze foto.

13 comments:

Tany said...

Very good and thourough turorial, well done!
Now the sleeves: it looks like you are having the same problem I had with the Armani coat sleeves; I altered the shape of the armhole on the back and also the back sleeve cap to remove the excess fabric. A couple of days ago I received a book (bought on Ebay) with pretty good info on fitting sleeves and armholes, I'll email you some scanned pages and maybe it helps

Summerset said...

Cool! I love the effect - thanks for taking the time to make the tutorial.

Nancy K said...

I had the same problem with the muslin for my leather jacket. I have a very erect back and while I have always taken out length I had never also narrowed the upper back until I was stumped and looked through all my fitting books. I also have a long arm joint and need to lower the under arm. Sandra Betzina also suggests that when you alter for a forward shoulder that you add to the front of the sleeve cap 1/4" and take off the back of the sleeve cap. I did all of the above for my jacket and this took care of the wrinkles. So that is 3 different fitting issues that contributed to my wrinkles.

Nancy K said...

Another thought. Pin up the shoulders and see if that helps. Looking again they seem a bit sloped. also pin a vertical fold at the shoulder. They look a tad wide to me.

Vicki said...

I had a similar problems with my fitting as well. I thought your shoulders look a bit wide and even your neck area looks a bit big.

Looks like if you took a wedge tuck below the yoke to your armhole it would dissapear. So maybe Tany's suggestion or raising the back armhole somehow. Maybe you can do this into the yoke piece?

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I have no suggestions regarding the fit of the shirt...I am sure that you will get some really good advice! I just wanted to thank you for the orgami tutorial!

LauraLo said...

Despite the sleeve issue, your shirt looks gorgeous! And thank you so much for the origami tutorial.

Valerie said...

Thank you for the tutorial, you make it look so easy.

christina said...

Sorry I don't have any advice to offer on the fit as that is not my strong point...!

Thanks for showing us how you did the origami. It really is so simple but the results are spectacular!

Berry said...

You beat me to the origami tutorial. It's precise and clear as always. I will try to do mine as well asap... or simply link to yours if you don't mind :o)

Marji said...

I love the origami detail - absolutely love it! Thank you so much for the very clear and concise tutorial.
It looks like you've gotten a lot of good feeback on the fit. I concur, it looks as if you need at least a narrow back adj in this pattern. You may not have a narrow back - but this pattern has a wide one for sure.
It's ok, but I'd also point out that if you make this again, you can probably reduce some of the flair at the hip too. Lucky you, you don't need quite that much room below the waist.

Isabelle said...

Your origami blouse is beautiful, Sigrid. I love the way your blouse fits at the waist and hips. Beautiful!

Linda said...

What a beautiful blouse! Great job.