Skip to main content

Sewing the elastic to the band

In the lingerie sew-along I orgnized a few years ago I’ve published this post on how I sew the elastic to the band. I’m re-posting it here for general information. I’ll try to gather a bit of those posts as a conclusion to my lingerie sewing month.

One of the most common problems in bra making is the rolling/flipping of the elastic to the inside. This is often caused because the elastic is sewn too low on the band. In one of the classes I took it was told that the maximum height of the band under the cup is 1.25 cm (0,5 inch). It was said that in a lingerie sewing contest  this was one of the things that got extra attention.
This is the way in which I sew the underband. It’s specially made as a tutorial, so only a partial bra is shown and non-matching colors are used for all parts.

Sew cups in the underband.
Sew the elastic to the  underband, pluche side up and picots pointing to the cup.
On the inside, sew the chanelling to the cup, on the very edge, almost onto the seam where you sewed the cup to the underband.
Turn the elastic and topstitch it with a triple zigzag.
The elastic attached.
The inside at this point.
Now topstitch the chanelling twice. Once close to the seam, once on the outer edge of the chanelling. After many bra's, this is still the most difficult part for me, sometimes I have to take it out because it shifts on the inside, and I won't get the wire through.
Finished on the inside.


  1. Thank you for so many clear pictures! This is perfect for referring back to. I'm going to "pin it."

  2. TFS. I am eagerly sucking up all the info I can on bra makiing.

  3. That's really interesting about the band height under the cup being a maximum of .5" - what about longline bras? Does that just require more fitting (vertical seams to allow for the proper circumference throughout the length) or are there really lengths that are just "wrong"?

  4. I wonder if the integrity of the garment would suffer at all if I could do the last under cup band zigzagging "after" I did the channelling top stitching, thereby allowing me to control where the zigzag goes. My purpose of this would be to avoid the zzzzz on the channeling. After all, it's not like that small bit needs to stretch.
    Previously, I would try just to avoid the channeling area with the zzzz.

  5. Thank you, your pictures make it look so simple. I'm sure it won't be when I get to this part.

  6. Why do you topstitch the channelling twice? I've always sewn it once to attach it to the cups, then flipped it up or down, depending on pattern, to secure the outer edge.
    I've just had a squiz at some of my RTW bras and it seems to go both ways. The pretty lacy ones are stitched twice, the plain and more "functional" ones are stitched once. Huh! Any ideas why?

  7. Thanks for the guidelines and the pictures helps to follow the step easily.

  8. Great tutorial and pictures! I like to use a 5/8" wide elastic on the bottom, so the band width must be 1.5" so that once the elastic is turned to the wrong side it lays just against the channeling. I also leave the band fabric behind the elastic when I turn it for extra support :)


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).