In the lingerie sew-along I orgnized a few years ago I’ve published this post on how I sew the elastic to the band. I’m re-posting it here for general information. I’ll try to gather a bit of those posts as a conclusion to my lingerie sewing month.
One of the most common problems in bra making is the rolling/flipping of the elastic to the inside. This is often caused because the elastic is sewn too low on the band. In one of the classes I took it was told that the maximum height of the band under the cup is 1.25 cm (0,5 inch). It was said that in a lingerie sewing contest this was one of the things that got extra attention.
This is the way in which I sew the underband. It’s specially made as a tutorial, so only a partial bra is shown and non-matching colors are used for all parts.
 | Sew cups in the underband. |
 | Sew the elastic to the underband, pluche side up and picots pointing to the cup. |
 | On the inside, sew the chanelling to the cup, on the very edge, almost onto the seam where you sewed the cup to the underband. |
 | Turn the elastic and topstitch it with a triple zigzag. |
 | The elastic attached. |
 | The inside at this point. |
 | Now topstitch the chanelling twice. Once close to the seam, once on the outer edge of the chanelling. After many bra's, this is still the most difficult part for me, sometimes I have to take it out because it shifts on the inside, and I won't get the wire through. |
 | Finished on the inside. |
