Skip to main content

the way to a muslin

I mentioned before that I entered the RTW contest at Pattern Review. I plan to make my version of this jacket.

The neckline was what attracted me in the pattern, and Lauriana was right in her comment that it’s not very difficult to copy, as the lapel collar will be attached to the facing.

The pattern has some other nice details, as curved lines at the shoulders. I started trying to make a pattern. I made this jacket from the August 2000 issue of Burda before and it’s one of my favorites to wear. Unfortunately I had thrown away the pattern, so I have to start completely from scratch. First I read my old blog posts to see what I had altered.

FBA and taking in on the shoulders. So that’s what I did first again. Then I started to incorporate the style of the new jacket I’m planning. This was not easy. But in the end I think I’m almost there. When I made the pictures for this post and put the detail picture of the rtw jacket beside it, I already saw that the curved line isn’t the same width all along, an dI did that. Perhaps a 3rd round of pattern drawing is necessary.

I really can’t tell exactly what I did in two sessions of drafting, but as you can see in the pictures it’s a lot of drawing and re-drawing with lines crossed through, new lines. It doesn’t have to be an exact copy, but I want to come close.

To be continued.

SewingZoe: thank you for your remarks on my fitting issues and my neckline. It’s very helpful and I will check on this in future items. You do not irritate or offend me with these comments. I’m glad you shared your thoughts, it can only help me to get better fitting garments. So thank you!


  1. I cant wait to see what you come up with .

  2. Good luck. It is a lovely jacket.

  3. What a nice jacket. I'll be following with interest.

  4. Love the details on that jacket--yours is going to be great!


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…