Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Last details and finished jacket

A picture heavy post, as I’ve included pictures on me and on the dressform, to show the comparison for this once. A few pictures on the end conclude the details on the construction of this jacket. The jacket is finished and I’m so happy with it. The style is very much me, the fit is good and I really enjoyed sewing it. Nothing more to wish for? There is one little thing that’s not quite correct, but I won’t tell!

The front, the extra shoulder interfacing of hair canvas really ensures that the fabric doesn’t collapse between shoulder and bust. My fabric was very flexible, and I think it was the right thing to do.

At the back I took a bit out of the shoulder, to remove the extra pleat I often have there. The solution was in the book Fit for real people and I want to thank Nancy K for pointing me to this solution.

In the sleeves I used a sleevehead and thin shoulder pads.

To finish the posts on the jacket the last details on construction for those interested.

I didn’t make a separate lining pattern, but used the pattern and marked the extra space where necessary on the fabric. I seldom make a jacket pattern twice, so I just cut the facings from front and back pattern. (if I want to I could tape them together again).

Extra space in the low part of the sleeves, on top of the sleeve the extra centimeter that is used by the shoulder pad is taken off.

Extra width in the back, and at the shoulder seams also the space of the shoulderpads is taken off (folded the pattern down).
Not in the picture, but I also added extra width at the top of the side seams, where the sleeves are set in.

Hongkong finish for the front facing. The lining is inserted with the bagging technique.

One of the pattern changes was taking out half a centimeter at the front shoulder and tapering to the side.

image

The effect is that the center front is closed more when worn open. See the difference between the two jackets?

The changes I made to the jacket pattern:

  • FBA on the front
  • Shoulder change in at neckline in front (as described above)
  • Shoulder change at the back (reverse, at the sleeve side) to remove extra space/pleat
  • sleeves 2 cm longer
  • decreased the sleeve ease
  • more waist definition at the back

And finally: I didn’t use Burda’s instructions at all, I adjusted the pattern and used techniques described in the books below. I wouldn’t want to be without these books in my sewing library.

23 comments:

Nancy K said...

It's gorgeous Sigrid! The fit is excellent and the style is perfect for you. It's a jacket you'll be able to wear for years.

alethia said...

Job well done! beautiful and it fits like a glove.

~Sherry~ said...

It's beautiful Sigrid - very flattering!

Jane M said...

What a wonderful jacket. It looks beautiful on you. Thanks for sharing so many details for how you fit and sewed it.

Birgitte said...

Fabulous jacket, Sigrid! Excellent fit, all the detailed work truly paid off. And that dressform- wow, it's just like you, I'm so jealous!! :))

Vicki said...

Beautiful!! It fits so beautiful and is so flattering. Love everything about it. The length is perfect for you. I want one just like it :)) And I am obsessing about making a dress form like yours.

gwensews said...

Gorgeous jacket. The fit is so perfect, and as always, your workmanship is excellent. Looks like your dressform is a perfect clone too. I have those books, and use them constantly.

Gail said...

I'm sending my address so you can pop it in the post! Really this is the best jacket I've seen on Blogland for quite a while. Very well made and gorgeous fabric.

JoanneM said...

Lovely jacket. The fit is amazing. When did you make the ivory jacket? That is equally as lovely. This weekend I am purchasing the Sandra Betzina book.To many reviews I can no longer ignore!

luckylibbet said...

Gorgeous fit. What a beautiful marriage of fabric, technique and style.

THANK YOU so much for sharing the journey. I've bookmarked these posts for my (eventual) jacket. As always, super informative. Your generosity in sharing is so wonderful!

Barbara said...

Wonderful jacket! Very elegant.

Uta said...

That jacket is gorgeous! And it fits so well - not a crease in sight. Impressive!

Marie-Christine said...

Really fabulous jacket! You're right, it's totally you :-).

Since I see you have Power Sewing, check out 'walking ease' in there. A really easy way to make sure your jackets and coats hang straight, I can testify that mine always do since I started making that alteration. More effective than changing the shoulder line, although you may also need to do that if your shoulders are particularly square.

Annette said...

What wonderful style and fit you have there. Absolutely lovely.

Omega said...

Beautiful jacket, I really like the fabric you used. It looks great on you. I enjoy seeing your construction details. Thanks.

Jos said...

prachtig jasje geworden Sigrid!!

Jana @ Weekend Vintage said...

Fabulous fit and so sharp looking!
Jana

Tany said...

Sigrid, that's a masterpiece!! Every single details breathes perfection!!

ELMO said...

These are beautiful and the lines of the sleeve are perfectly tailored.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

It's a beautiful jacket and all of the work you put into it shows in the amazing fit! Wow!

Summerset said...

Beautifully done! The sleeves hang so nicely - the sleevehead and shoulder pad combination is just right. The fit through the waist is very flattering, too.

senaSews said...

Beautiful jacket with a perfect fit. Well done!

cheryl labuda said...

Beautiful fitting. You are inspiring