Skip to main content

Merckwaerdigh – BHS10 – Construction part 2

After constructing the band as in previous post, the next thing to do is making the cups. The cup-pattern consist of 3 parts. I’ve made 2-part cups in the past with good results, but the bra’s with 3 part cups have my preference. This one is different from the Rebecca Sewy bra that I’ve often made.

The parts cut in lace. This time I will not interface the lace. It’s stable enough to use on its own. This really depends on the amount of stretch the lace has. For me most stretch lace is not strong/stable enough for the cups.
If you look closely you can see that my pattern piece on the right is not as long as the paper pattern. I’m a bit short on lace and wanted to keep a bit for a panty, so I’ll make the lace part of the strap shorter.

With this pattern, carefully mark the notches, I made mistakes there in my red version. Cut the parts on the scallop with the lowest part of the scallop at the actual stitching line for the side cup and at the edge of the upper cup.
At the top of the upper cup narrow elastic is sewn with a small zigzag stitch. While stitching the elastic is stretched a little bit. This will ensure the cup will  lay smoothly to your skin. 

Then the upper and under cup are sewn together, followed by topstitching. For this I use the edge stitch foot. Very accurate for this kind of topstitching.
Upper and under cup sewn together. I haven’t cut the seam allowance very narrow. With this kind of embroidery the embroidery will come loose if there’s a very narrow seam allowance only.

Next step is sewing the side cup to the upper and under cup. The side cup is on top, stitched with a zigzag stitch.

On the side cup I’ve used the narrow elastic again on the part for the shoulder strap. It might not be very necessary for this bra, as the strap part of the cup is shorter. When you use the length of the pattern this is more important.

Next post: sewing the cups in the band / wire channelling / elastic


  1. I love these posts! Thank you for blogging this.

  2. the lace looks so pretty - looking forward to the next post.

  3. I am sooo glad you are posting about this pattern. I have a pattern similar to Merckwaerdigh BHL-15 but had a hard time sewing the 3 part bra like this one. This tutorial will help alot. Thanks!!!

  4. I am following closely so that I can try this out myself! Thankyou for the instructions/

  5. Sigrid, help!!!
    I've tried sewing the cups 5 times but I just don't understand which parts go where! I've carefully marked the notches but I'm still confused. I'm doing the CUPL16 pattern which is a 3 part cup. I'd be very thankful for any help!
    Thank ou for such a great blog.

  6. Magali, I don't have that specific pattern, but it looks a bit the same as the one I used here. I remember having sewn the parts wrong a few times as well. The small part is sewn to the upper cup first, then the large side cup is attached. Look for the marks on the round edge of the lower cup and the upper cup.

    If you have any more questions, send me an e-mail (address in side bar), I could not find yours, therefor my reaction here as a comment too.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…