Skip to main content

Merckwaerdigh – BHS1- Construction, part 3

A very picture-heavy post. Difficult to break it in two posts in a logical way, so I’ll make it one long post.

First the cups are stitched in the band. I’ve used 1cm seam allowances. Be careful at the top of the bridt to match the cups at center of the bridge. I usually try to have the lowest point of the scallop of the upper cup to be at the top of the bridge.

The next step is to sew in the first step of the wire channelling. After this step the elastic is attached first.

As you can see in the picture the wire chanelling is sewn at the very edge, with a normal length straight stitch. It’s pinned on the side of cup. It will be folded down to the band.

 

Important: leave about 2 cm unstitched at the side of the cup. This is needed to sew the elastic in.

A picture where you can see clearly on which side the wire channel is attached.

 

Measure the length of elastic needed. I always use 20% less than the length of the pattern piece.

Check the width of your hook and eye closure. the picot edge of the elastic must be at the end of the closing.

Stitch the elastic with zigzag stitches tot the band and the side of the cup. The pluche side of the elastic is on top, the picot edge pointing to the lace.

 

Detail, and I agree if you think I should have used a better color thread ;)

Trim the seam allowance, turn the elastic and topstitch with a triple zigzag. Be careful not to sew the wire channel while topstitching (how I know this is a risk?)

 

Topstitching on the inside

And on the outside, hardly to be seen in the lace.

At the bottom of the band I used the elastic with the picot edge pointing to the inside. The scallop needs all attention, the picot edge shouldn’t be seen. (In other bra’s I do it the same as described above, it’s only this pattern with the straight scallop that calls for this).

It’s only sewn with a triple zigzag stitch.

Now it’s time to finish the wire channel: trim the seam allowances and grade them so that it’s not one thick layer.

Pin and topstitch from the right side. I do this once as an edgestitch very close to the cup, and once at the outside of the wire channel.

The wire channel is on top of the elastic at the bottom of the cup.

I need a very narrow bridge, the wire channel is crossing here. At this point the second row of topstitching stops at the point where the channels meet. This way the wires can go to the top of the channeld. Whether this is necessary depends comletely on your shape.

Here you can see the wire channel going over the elastic on top of the band. Both ends of the channel are closed with a small, narrow zigzag stitch (the second side after putting the wire in!). I always cut my wire channels a bit too long and trim later.

The hook and eye closing is attached with the eyes on the left and the hooks on the right.

And now the bra is almost finished, Pictures in the next post.

Comments

  1. I'm getting inspired. Making bras might make it into my skill set eventually. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  2. The bra is really pretty and inspiring me to give bra making another go. Will you add this to the sewingtutorials.blogspot.com?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi Sigrid, thank you for commenting on my blog. It is so nice to be able to follow along and understand now that I have made a few bras. It is nice seeing how you cut the cup seams with part of the embroidery to match. I am curious, though--if the lace doesn't have much stretch, how were you able to cut it for the band? Did you have to cut it bigger to accommodate stretch?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wow this looks so professional. Anyone would be glad to own this beautiful lingerie.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Ik vind het altijd heerlijk om te zien,hoe een bh in elkaar gezet wordt. Mede dankzij jou, heb ik lingerie naaien geleerd.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…