Sunday, February 5, 2012

Merckwaerdigh – BHS10 – Construction, part 1

A post I haven’t done for a long time: showing how I make a bra. In this case, the pattern I’m using is the Merckwaerdigh BHS 10. It’s the one completely made of lace, as shown in the drawing at the bottom right. Another vairiation I made you can see in this post, there I combined lace and lycra. This time I want to make the all-lace variation.

Let me say that this is my interpretation of construction, I didn’t even look at the instructions provided with the pattern, just using my experience. I have no affiliation with the company, just like a few of their patterns.
This lace variation calls for a stretch lace, as the band will need stretch. I often use non-stretch lace for the cups and most stretch laces are not firm enough for me without an extra interfacing in the cups (obviously depending on your cup size). There are a few tule laces available though, that have some stretch and are firm enough for the cups to use without interfacing.
Only then: I like a bit firmness in the band, so I’m using an extra interfacing layer for the band. In the picture below you can see the inner structure for the band. The center front is a tule without any stretch, the bridge mustn’t stretch at all. The sides are a kind of powernet. Firm but with stretch. These two are sewn together.

The pattern has a center front seam, the band is straight at the bottom to be able to completely use the scallop of the lace. (I’ve made a straight center front this time, the pattern has – v-shape, nice but more complex to sew).

Attaching the inner layer sew at the center with the inner layer at the right side of the lace. Trim and turn. Edgestich the top of the bridge.

To hold everything together, I’ve used a zigzag stitch to the edges of the cup and top of the band.
Inside of the construction (center part is cut a bit small at the lower edge, but will be covered later).

The outside
 
Completed band. These two layers will now be treated as one.

Next post: the cups.

15 comments:

  1. Interested to see how this turns out. Have fune.

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  2. Ziet er veelbelovend uit!!!
    Erg mooi kantje..

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  3. I'm going to have to put bra-making on my list of things to learn how to do. Sure would love to be able to have some variety in fabrics, which I can't get in the ones I buy.

    Thanks for posting.

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  4. I like the detail of the lace edge at the bottom. So very pretty.

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  5. So glad you are sharing another bra. This looks to be beautiful; I love the peach colors in the lace.

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  6. It's beautiful how the edges of the lace make the band. Can't wait to see more.

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  7. I'm very interested in seeing this through. I really want to make bras; thank you so much for sharing!

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  8. I'm glad your doing a post on these patterns. I have quite a few but the english isnt very well. I have had some success though and will post mine too.

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  9. The construction is very interesting to see. I'm amazed at how professional the bridge looks when the two layers are put together. It appears quite substantial. Thanks.

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  10. Have put together a couple of all-cotton, all-woven bras in the past weeks, thanks to your inspiration. They go together so quickly! Odd to fit oneself, though; and mind-expanding to realize that one can take control of a category of clothing that is so needlessly shrouded in mystery!

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  11. Oooh, what a great series. I am still intimidated by bra sewing but yours are so beautiful that it seems worth getting past the fear!

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  12. Thank you. Bramaking is beginning to seem totally doable. I have made my first (a bit wonky) and am eyeing the Maerchwerdig line. I think I shall go for three-piece cups and sturdy underbust band, though.

    Vibeke in Oslo

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  13. saw the 2nd post before the 1st so did a search to read them in order - I really need to plan a trip to The Hague, but will wait for the snow to clear first I think :-)

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It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!