Saturday, December 19, 2020

Jeans - sewing a curved seam

I made some good progress on my jeans. The back pieces are finished and the front pockets done. 


The pocket has a strong curve. In most of my garments I work with the seam lines and I mark those so stitching is basically stitching over the seam lines. 

Not with this pattern, which has 5/8" seam allowances (1.5 cm) included. When sewing with default seam allowances it's important that you watch where the fabric on the plate is (where the measurements are), not the front of the foot. 
In the photo below you can see that at the position of the needle, the measurement is 5/8"to the edge of the fabric. But at the front of the foot it's more. So while sewing, you watch the position of the fabric at the point where the green arrow at the right points to.
The foot I was using here has a very convenient mark for the needle position, but it works exactly the same when your foot doesn't have it, the you'll keep an eye on the position that's in line with the needle.


After stitching it's trimming and clipping.

Don't clip to the stitch line! Stay away 2-3 mm from it. If you clip to the stitch line, you might get sharp corners in your curve. 

Press the pocket facing to the inside.

Topstitch and ready to continue!


  1. These look great! Love the povket stitching too. And thank you for the tip. I will watch out for that.

  2. Bedankt voor de voetjestip. Tegen het uitlubberen van de zakken gebruik ik naadband oftewel coutureband dat ik erin strijk en mee stik. Verder stik ik de naad plat aan de achterkant (naadwaarde naar een kant) en dan trim ik de zak ongelijk met de applicatieschaar en dan vouw ik pas om voor het doorstikken.

  3. Beautiful curved edge on that pocket, Sigrid. Great reminder on where to watch our seams. Love your pocket design as well. Merry Christmas to you.

    1. Thank you Bunny. A very merry Christmas to you too!

  4. Great topstitching. Pure perfection.


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