Tuesday, October 17, 2017

A drafting experiment

The dress I made was cut on the bias and as a result I had a bit of fabric left. It inspired me to sew this top as experiment for rotating darts out to the neckline and create tucks. It’s a style I don’t use as in commercial patterns there is usually so much ease around the bust added that I I feel it makes me look huge. Still I wanted to try this. The result is better than I hoped because no extra ease is added at bust height. Not the very best style on me but wearable.

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I made the shoulder seam with the instructions from Sara Alm’s Craftsy class Facings and linings. Very neat method. Definitely a good alternative to the way I used before.


For those interested the pattern drafting phases. The shoulder, armhole and bust dart are rotated out, creating space at the new tuck lines.




In the end I did not sew the waist dart.

To conclude a first picture of my next project. Pattern pieces cut and block-fused. It’s a souvenir fabric I bought a few years ago in New York. At the time I thought I would make a Chanel-style jacket of it, but I’m not really wanting one any more. It will be a short coat. More on that later.



  1. Interesting experiment! I like the resulting top with those nicely spaced tucks.

  2. This experiment worked well...it is a lovely top.

  3. Very nice. Rotating darts really is an easy way to get something interesting and stylish. I have two tops where I did the same thing, only I sewed darts to the outside. So much more interesting than side darts are!

  4. I've been meaning to try this! I also have to do an FBA on patterns and sometimes my side darts are insanely big/cumbersome and now seeing yours I'm inspired. I never would have thought to do it as you've done here with the spread over 4 pleats across the shoulder. I'm bookmarking this great tutorial! thank you :)

  5. I really like the top and perfect to wear with a jacket. Glad to hear it worked out as expected.