Friday, December 2, 2016

An unstructured jacket (more or less)

On my sewing list is a jacket inspired by one I saw a few months ago. It was in a shop and I have no pictures of it, nor do I remember the brand. It was unlined, didn't have a lot of structure and was from a knit fabric. 
My fabric is a knit too and I'm using minimal structure/interfacing. It's an experiment, I am inclined to add more but want to see whether it will work to create a jacket that will feel more like a cardigan, without being the famous Chanel style. 
This is what I have done:
stay tape in shoulder and neckline
Fusible interfacing for the front facing. 
Lapel and roll line
The under collar. I fused the interfacing over the piece of hair canvas to ger a roll line. 

I did not interface the front or make a shoulder stay. While working on it I'll decide where to add more (probably the hem at least). 
Cut longer than usual, might shorten it. 

Thank you all for the nice comments on my coat. Loved to read them all. 


  1. Maybe a little less complicated than the last. Looking good. I just did the pattern work for a unstructured knit jacket today. Great minds think alike.

  2. That is looking really yummy in that beautiful knit!

  3. When sewing knits, there is always the problem of how to finish an edge. Turn and straight stitch, then the stitches will break when stretched, or use a coverstitch, but who has one? Zigzag the stretchy edge, but doesn't that look homemade-ish? Ok, interface, makes for great topstitching, but there's no stretch!! Working with knits is a constant battle to decide where to interface or not, topstitch or not, and serge or straight stitch or not. Also could it be time to invest in a coverstitch machine? I love knits!

  4. Doesn't look like too easy a project :) Looking forward to seeing the end result,

  5. I love the idea of using just a little bit of tailoring like that tiny stay tape along the neckline and lapels. A small additive that makes such a big difference in the garment. I saw an article in an old Threads Magazine that I'll need to go back and read in depth called "soft tailoring". I'm very interested in it.