Sunday, August 17, 2014

Glad I made a muslin

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I’m in a mood for skirts, have sewn two recently (one not blogged about yet). Last year I bought Vogue 1389 for the skirt pattern. I like the jacket too, would only sew a real lapel collar but the skirt had a special appeal to me. Learning how to draft patterns does not mean I’m not using patterns any more, some are intriguing to learn about the way they are drafted. This pattern is one of those.

It has two main pattern pieces if you don’t count the facings and there is no side seam. That seam is drafted a bit more to the back . The upper part with the darts is a combined front/upper back pattern. Difficult to trace between sizes, therefor I took the size by hip measurement. I was inclined to use my fashion fabric (a teal linen) but decided to make a muslin first. Glad I did. Barely enough room at hip height but way too much fabric in the waist. I have no idea (yet) how to solve this. I might just take my skirt draft and make something similar. I just can’t do without a vertical line somewhere. I’ll keep the muslin and take it to class when it starts again in September, see what my teacher thinks.

On a side note: the instructions are pretty difficult as they have you sew the dart till halfway, then turn and fold and stitch the remaining half to the facing, which is attached prior to sewing the darts. No way I’m using a facing in a muslin phase, I’ve sewn all the darts from beginning to end which worked fine. When you read this and want to try this pattern using Vogue’s instructions, I would advise a muslin, as there is no way to alter at the waist later.

 

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10 comments:

  1. It really is a cute pattern. Now you have done the muslin, can you pinch out the excess and alter the pattern?

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  2. That's really tricky. Isn't the skirt supposed to be a raised waist?
    Lucky that you have a teacher to bring this to!

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  3. Great skirt but that does look quite challenging to fit. I think a discussion with the teacher is definitely in order.

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  4. Wow. That's a LOT loose! Yay, muslin!!

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  5. why can't pin darts on the muslin - several - to take off the extra width at waist. mark the darts on the muslin and close the pieces. Because the upper side is made of several pieces it is not difficult to close them. They will be more curved than the original pattern pieces. That's what I would do.
    enlarging the part below will not be very difficult. I hope you understand what I mean. Carmen

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  6. This will look great when you get the fit fixed. I can certainly see why you were attracted to it. I'm pear shaped so would have the same problem with the pattern. I'm tempted, though

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  7. When I first saw this pattern, I thought about how tricky the back looked and decided I wasn't willing to try it. =) I'm glad you made a muslin too! It's a cute design, but does look hard to fit.

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  8. Wow, I can't wait to see your solution!

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  9. HI Sigrid, I too can't wait to see the solution. Love the lines of the skirt, yet I'm not sure I'd be up to tackling the fitting on it either.

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