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Minor change

On the left the photo I published on Friday, on the right with a slight change to the armscye and sleeve (as first suggested by Nancy K, thank you!). I could not just take out more fromt the bodice, as that would influence wearing ease too much. I took away from the bodice and added to the sleeve. Again this is better, but there is still a hollow pleat that I don’t know how to get rid off. It’s so difficult to fit yourself, especially in the back.

Think I will I take out a little of the middle pattern piece and see what happens. If you have any thoughts on this, please share.


  1. I may be way off base but those look similar to the wrinkles I get from a round back. I don't think you have a round back so much as a very erect back. I want to slash across the back just above the wrinkles and allow it to spread at cb. In my mind I can see those wrinkles relaxing with a small amount of extra length added.

  2. Debbie may indeed be right, but my first impression was that the back armscye was too long. I'd try pinching a little out on the pattern. If you don't pinch too much, I've found you can scrunch the pattern without transferring the difference anywhere else.

  3. Alternatively, you could put a small dart along that fold right into the armscye.

  4. The second photo looks so much better - the sleeve fits really well now and is giving a lovely line down your arm.
    Sorry, can't help with the wrinkles, but keen to see what others suggest.

  5. I will think on this. Try putting in a larger pad and see if that helps. I don't really think that is the problem, I don't see you as having more than average slope in your shoulders. The other option is to do what Kenneth King does and pin out the wrinkle, transferring the net loss to the nearest seam, the armscye. It is definitely hard to fit yourself!

  6. I just received my copy of and I think you might find some of her options helpful. Unfortunately, I don't think I can explain it all here, but she recommends pinning out the excess into a shoulder or neckline dart.

  7. The shoulder needs to be pulled up slightly. On this one, I'd drop the total armscye on the entire bodice by 1/2"--it will lower the shoulder slope slightly, but it will keep the armscye circumference constant so the sleeve installs the same. That, or install a thicker shoulder pad.

  8. Oh My any suggestions of correction after the one made by Kenneth King would sound strange. Here are the references I use for armholes:

    And for pressing false wrinkles:

    You will certainly succeed.

  9. I do agree that it is extreemly difficult to fit clothes for yourself. Didn' t you ever concider investing in a dressform ( personalised??)

  10. It's fabulouos! Exactly what it needed. You will have to remember to do this in future projects. It's amazing what we notice that we never noticed when we didn't know better. I can't wait to see the finished project.

  11. Following your fitting progress with great interest. It's a fascinating process, how 1/2" here or there can have such an effect.
    Don't cut anything - gather the armscythe with little chain stitches to remove the excess fabric and shrink out with steam. Leave the stitches in afterwards too. Vintage couture Tailoring, Thomas von Nordheim, page 118


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