Skip to main content

Jacket muslin

I’ve been working on drafting the pattern for the second jacket I want to make. My inspiration is another Claudia Sträter jacket. This jacket again has special design lines.

The pattern I started with is a Burda pattern. Have to check on the issue but it’s an old issue and it doesn’t look like this jacket. It has a lot of design lines though, which made it a bit easier to change them.

I’ve started with a size 40 by high bust measurement, knowing I would have to do an FBA. I decided to worry about that in a later phase, as the first thing was to get the lines of the pattern as I wanted.


My observations, I’d love to hear your thoughts on it. (click on the pictures too see a larger one)

  • it’s too long, it has to be shortened.
  • Collar looks ok, both roll line and hight of lapel
  • I made the shoulder a bit shorter, think that’s better, but to be finally judged with sleeves added
  • Start of pocket must be more to the side seam
  • FBA needed
  • Curve is too round, must be a bit steeper. It gets extra attention in my version because of the different fabric I had to use, might be less of an issue in the final fabric. And no one sees the original beside my version except my blog readers Knipogende emoticon
  • The back is over fitted at waist level, fabric pulling and not enough space to move
  • A bit more space needed at the bottom
  • I’m unsure about the amount of fabric at the armscye, but this too can also be judged when the sleeves are set in

What do you think, should I sew in the sleeves in this muslin or do the adaptions first and sew another muslin of the bodice?




  1. I've always been told to put the sleeves in as this can change the fit completely.

    I'm really liking this so far and agree with your thoughts. Can't wait to see its progress.

  2. I like the length, you might shorten it a little, but not as much the pattern.
    I think you will have to put the sleeves in to tell much about the upper body.

    It looks great, I love the lines and curves.

  3. I would put the sleeves in too. The only real adjustment that will relate to fit is the bust. You can just let out that seam a bit in the front to see how much you need for that.

  4. I think you should try putting the sleeves in as to my eye there is too much fabric in arm scythe. I also think you need a small swayback adjustment.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…