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Jacket muslin

I’ve been working on drafting the pattern for the second jacket I want to make. My inspiration is another Claudia Sträter jacket. This jacket again has special design lines.

The pattern I started with is a Burda pattern. Have to check on the issue but it’s an old issue and it doesn’t look like this jacket. It has a lot of design lines though, which made it a bit easier to change them.

I’ve started with a size 40 by high bust measurement, knowing I would have to do an FBA. I decided to worry about that in a later phase, as the first thing was to get the lines of the pattern as I wanted.


My observations, I’d love to hear your thoughts on it. (click on the pictures too see a larger one)

  • it’s too long, it has to be shortened.
  • Collar looks ok, both roll line and hight of lapel
  • I made the shoulder a bit shorter, think that’s better, but to be finally judged with sleeves added
  • Start of pocket must be more to the side seam
  • FBA needed
  • Curve is too round, must be a bit steeper. It gets extra attention in my version because of the different fabric I had to use, might be less of an issue in the final fabric. And no one sees the original beside my version except my blog readers Knipogende emoticon
  • The back is over fitted at waist level, fabric pulling and not enough space to move
  • A bit more space needed at the bottom
  • I’m unsure about the amount of fabric at the armscye, but this too can also be judged when the sleeves are set in

What do you think, should I sew in the sleeves in this muslin or do the adaptions first and sew another muslin of the bodice?




  1. I've always been told to put the sleeves in as this can change the fit completely.

    I'm really liking this so far and agree with your thoughts. Can't wait to see its progress.

  2. I like the length, you might shorten it a little, but not as much the pattern.
    I think you will have to put the sleeves in to tell much about the upper body.

    It looks great, I love the lines and curves.

  3. I would put the sleeves in too. The only real adjustment that will relate to fit is the bust. You can just let out that seam a bit in the front to see how much you need for that.

  4. I think you should try putting the sleeves in as to my eye there is too much fabric in arm scythe. I also think you need a small swayback adjustment.


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